INTRODUCTION
indian almond leaves have been a long kept secret of breeders of bettas in south asia. it was long ago noticed that fish that lived in the waters next to indian almond trees (the leaves of which would fall naturally into the waters) were found to be healthier and more vibrant than their counterparts. it was surmised that if one were to introduce the leaves into aquariums one could achieve similar conditions as found in the fishes natural enviroment. the leaves were found to help keep their fish healthy with strong anti-bacterial properties and promote breeding. the dried leaves act as a "black water extract" which gradually turns the water brown like tea and effectively reduces the ph levels in water, releasing organic compounds such as humic acids, flavanoids (quercetin and kamferol) and tannins (s. a. punicalin, punicalagin and tercatein) into the water which absorb harmful chemicals. other fish known to benefit from indian almond leaf use include baby discus, dwarf chiclids, killi fish, rasboras, catfish and black water tetras.
tannins, by the way are described by horvath (1981) as "any phenolic compound of sufficiently high molecular weight containing sufficiant hydroxyls and other suitable groups (ie. carboxyls) to form effectively strong complexes with protein and other macromolecules under the particular enviromental conditions being studied."
from an article by chris yew (www.siamsbestbettas.com)
"What is Humic Acid? Is it a mixture of several organic acids? Humic acids are a complex mixture of partially "decomposed" and otherwise transformed organic materials. The freshwater humic acids can come from a variety of sources, most of which are on land (decomposing terrestrial vegetation.) These substances wash into lakes and rivers, undergoing further transformations along the way, and ultimately into the ocean.
Humic acid contains Sulfur, Nitrogen and Phosphorus in varying amounts. It also contains metals such as Ca, Mg, Cu, Zn etc. which can be 'chelated' in some undefined way. Humic acid can be broken down into two groups based on the polarity and size of the individual 'compounds'.
The smaller, more polar fraction is generally termed fulvic acid and the larger, more non-polar fraction is generally termed humic acid. Humic acids are the end product of microbial degradation of plant and animal debris and are one of the most important constituents of fertile soils.
Tannins, lignins and fulvic acids are sub classes of humic acids. They all tint the water yellow.
Tannic and humic acids may be useful for inhibiting many types of bacteria including cyano-bacteria and are fairly benign for your fish.
Another paradoxical effect of humic acids is the detoxification of heavy metals. Humic material and detritus in the aquarium also rapidly absorb and detoxify many chemicals including zinc, aluminum and copper! One might expect them to be made more, not less toxic by humic acids, but the studies seem to indicate a detoxifying effect.
Also important to know: The harder the water the more ineffective the humic acids - - - more exactly: the dissolved lime in the water produces undissolvable calcium humates. So, the higher the water hardness, the higher must be the supply of humates in order to achieve an acidifying effect. The softer the water, the less humates are needed and the better the effect. It creates a natural environment similar to that of the lakes in the tropical rainforest and some area of the Amazon River. It also induces spawning for most soft water and acid loving fishes"
INDIAN ALMOND LEAF, THE TREE
terminalia catappa l. (scientific name)
common names:
badamier, java almond, amandier de cayenne, tropical almond, wild almond, indian almond, myrobalan, malabar almond, singapore almond, ketapang, huu kwang, sea almond, kobateishi, west indian almond, amandel huu kwang.
family: combretaceae (combretum family).
tropical almond trees are large deciduous trees that thrive as ornamentals tree in many tropical cities around the world. originally from india, it grows up to 90 feet tall with horizontal whorls of branches offering clusters of foot long, obovate leaves that turn pink-red to red-yellow before falling. the greenish-white female and male flowers are on the same tree and are inconspicious. it has large (2-3 inch) nutty fruits very similar in taste to commercially grown almonds.
hardiness: usda zones 9 thru 11
propagation: seeds
culture: full sun, moist, well drained soil. has salt and drought tolerance but should be planted in frost free areas.
tropical almond tree can be grown in a container where it's size can be controlled for many years.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINAL USES
leaves, bark and nutty fruits of tree have been used in various ways around the world;
- to cure dysentry (south east asia)
- dressing of rheumatic joints (indonesia)
- asthma, stop bleeding during tooth extraction, travel nausea (mexico)
- leprosy, headaches, rheumatism, scabies, skin diseases (india)
- to get rid of internal parasites (philippines)
- treat eye problems, coughs, rheumatism, wound dressing, diarrhea (samoa)
- treat liver diseases (taiwan)
- colic (south america)
- scabies (pakistan)
- fever and dysentry (brazil)
modern research has identified some properties that could treat high blood pressure.
the leaves contain agents for chemo-prevention of cancer and probably have anticarciogenic properties.
the kernel of indian almond leaf has shown aphrodisiac activity; it can probably be used in treatment of some forms of sexual inadequacies (premature ejaculation).
ethanol extract of the leaves have shown potential in treatment of sickle cell disorders.
the indian almond tree also produces a substance in it's leaves and sap that defends against insect parasites.
USE IN BREEDING
south asian breeders will use dried indian almond leaves in their breeding tank as it's ph lowering properties mean less water changes are needed in the crucial first few weeks of the frys life. i was also told that by heavily treating breeding tank water with IAL you could increase the ratio of male to female substantially. i tested this theory during my last two spawns and can say that any increase in male to female ratios was almost non existent. still, i have heard from people i respect that it is indeed true. see for yourself. as well, the leaf promotes an increase in breeding frequency in your adults and improves health and vitality in newborn fry. it is suggested you replace leaves every two or three weeks until the fry are 3 to 4 months old. males love to build bubble nests under floating almond leaves and females will find refuge under a submerged leaf as well. the water becomes brownish and simulates their natural habitat.
TREATING SICK FISH
indian almond leaf has been used to cure sick fish of bacterial infections and to help speed up healing of damaged fins or body injuries. it should be noted that indian almond leaf is an alternative to commercially produced medicines but it's not a magic "cure-all", especially when dealing with diseases like dropsy, velvet etc. think of it as more of a preventative medicine. we have set up an indian almond leaf "betta spa" tank that all our fish spend some time in once a month.
if you choose to use indian almond leaf as a medicine you should be prepared to keep your fish in the tank for 10 - 14 days, avoid direct sunlight, keep the water temperature around 70 -82 degrees f. and feed live food preferably, to achieve desired results.
CONDITIONING FIGHTERS
traditionally, breeders of "fighting" plakats have used almond leaf to condition their fish. fry that have grown up in a community tank often have "softer" skin and scales are not smooth or slippery enough to tolerate hard biting from a sharp toothed opponent. indian almond leaf is used to harden and coat the skin and scales. the plakat is placed in a clay pot filled with clean and aged water along with a leaf for at least 7 days. the betta is fed live food once a day and is kept in a dark and quiet place. afterwards, you will find you betta to be lively, with bright colouration, strength and full fins. this technique can be used sucessfully to cure sick fish and help grow back fins of any betta.
PRECAUTIONS
betta breeders who choose to use indian almond leaf exclusively should be aware that bettas that have been raised with indian almond leaf treated water might not be able to adapt to aged tap water once sold to someone unaware. it's always important to know how any betta you plan to buy has been raised and as a breeder you should inform prospective buyers as well. excessive use of indian almond leaf also contributes to very acidic water conditions and lowers ph levels too much in some instances.
WHERE TO GET?
indian almond leaf can be found for sale on various betta websites as well as aquabid. of course if you live in south east asia you can pick it off the street as it's found everywhere. it is recommended that you wash dried leaves in water before placing in tanks and replace after 1 to 2 weeks. you can now get it in a teabag form as well.
Almond Leaf
The poor man’s water conditioner
by S. N. Nagendra
of India
Aquarticles
Quite often we tend to neglect the quality of water provided for fish in containment. Disasters with aquariums happen mainly because of poor water standards. For the better aquarists there are products commercially available to improve water conditions. But the majority of us end up buying either low grade stuff OR pay very high to get better products. But, here lies a simple way of enhancing your water parameters by using a leaf of the Great Indian Almond Tree…
Like our good friend Aditya said: Take care of the water; the fish will take care of themselves.
Benefits of almond tree leaf:
The (wild) Sea Almond tree (Terminalia catappa) produces a poison in its leaves and sap to defend against insect parasites. Even the dried leaves contain this chemical substance. These leaves when put into water release anti-bacterial substances into the water. The colour of the water also turns to brown gradually thereby creating an environment of black water.
Almond leaves actually release organic acids like humic and tannins. This lowers the pH. They help to absorb harmful chemicals and thus create a soothing and calm environment for the fish.
Availability:
These are available in almost all cities in India. The plants are seen in most residential areas and dry leaves are a plentiful to pick. In Bangalore, you can see them around Lalbagh and Cubbon Park areas.
In Singapore, they are sold at $1 per leaf!! (Where they can be bought via the Internet - ed.)
Usage/Dosage:
Almond leaves are particularly suitable for sensitive soft water fishes baby discus, dwarf cichlids, rare bettas and all black water tetras, rasboras and catfishes. They are not suitable for hard water fishes such as African cichlids.
The dried leaves are ideal for reducing fish loss due to bacterial disease, and for keeping sensitive species.
Add one leaf per 50 litres of water for all fishes under medication, or one leaf for a 3 feet standard aquarium for general maintenance.
The fishes will be rejuvenated with improved vitality.
Various parts of almond trees are also used in traditional medicine practices throughout S.E. Asia and India.
Duration:
Depending on the condition of the leaf; it can be in there as long as two weeks. If leaves deteriorate by breaking or tearing, or start withering, remove the leaf immediately and replace with another.
Another important thing is that using almond leaves regularly also helps in spawning activities in fishes!!
Showing posts with label 龙鱼疾病. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 龙鱼疾病. Show all posts
Monday, December 7, 2009
Ammonia Poisoning
Disease Type:
Environmental
Cause: Unionized Ammonia (NH3)
Description:
Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.
Symptoms:
# Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Purple or red gills
# Fish is lethargic
# Loss of appetite
# Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
# Red streaking on the fins or body
Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.
As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.
Treatment:
# Lower pH below 7.0
# 25 - 50% water change
# Use chemical to neutralize ammonia
# Discontinue or reduce feeding
If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.
At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.
Prevention:
# Stock new tanks slowly
# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
# Change water regularly
# Test water regularly to catch problems early
The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. Even in an well established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking. Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Test the water for ammonia at least twice a month to detect problems before they become serious. Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning. If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.
Environmental
Cause: Unionized Ammonia (NH3)
Description:
Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions.
Symptoms:
# Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Purple or red gills
# Fish is lethargic
# Loss of appetite
# Fish lays at the bottom of the tank
# Red streaking on the fins or body
Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly, or over a period of days. Initially the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will being to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.
As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally, and eventually dies.
Treatment:
# Lower pH below 7.0
# 25 - 50% water change
# Use chemical to neutralize ammonia
# Discontinue or reduce feeding
If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.
If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.
At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. Levels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. For that reason it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero. When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.
Prevention:
# Stock new tanks slowly
# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
# Change water regularly
# Test water regularly to catch problems early
The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. Even in an well established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking. Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Test the water for ammonia at least twice a month to detect problems before they become serious. Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning. If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.
Nitrite Poisoning
Disease Type:
Environmental
Cause: Nitrite
Names: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning
Description:
Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of ammonia as a major killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you are home free after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, the nitrites rise and put your fish at risk again. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrites will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to established an tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when medicating sick fish.
Symptoms:
# Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Fish hang near water outlets
# Fish is listless
# Tan or brown gills
# Rapid gill movement
Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.
Different species of fish tolerate differing levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface of the water, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill color from tan to dark brown.
Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase damage occurs to the liver, gills and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen, and/or secondary diseases.
Treatment:
# Large water change
# Add salt, preferably chlorine salt
# Reduce feeding
# Increase aeration
The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water will prevent methemoglobin from building up. Chlorine salt is preferable, however any aquarium salt is better than no salt at all. Aeration should be increased to provide ample oxygen saturation in the water. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Nitrite is letal at much lower levels than ammonia. Therefore it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite falls to zero.
Prevention:
# Stock new tanks slowly
# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
# Change water regularly
# Test water regularly to catch problems early
The key to elminating fish death is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged elevation of nitrites. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. In an established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.
Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.
Environmental
Cause: Nitrite
Names: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning
Description:
Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of ammonia as a major killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you are home free after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, the nitrites rise and put your fish at risk again. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrites will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to established an tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when medicating sick fish.
Symptoms:
# Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
# Fish hang near water outlets
# Fish is listless
# Tan or brown gills
# Rapid gill movement
Also known as 'brown blood disease' because the blood turns brown from a increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.
Different species of fish tolerate differing levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface of the water, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill color from tan to dark brown.
Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase damage occurs to the liver, gills and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen, and/or secondary diseases.
Treatment:
# Large water change
# Add salt, preferably chlorine salt
# Reduce feeding
# Increase aeration
The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water will prevent methemoglobin from building up. Chlorine salt is preferable, however any aquarium salt is better than no salt at all. Aeration should be increased to provide ample oxygen saturation in the water. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.
Nitrite is letal at much lower levels than ammonia. Therefore it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite falls to zero.
Prevention:
# Stock new tanks slowly
# Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
# Change water regularly
# Test water regularly to catch problems early
The key to elminating fish death is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged elevation of nitrites. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. In an established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.
Feed fish small quantities of foods, and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove an dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occured as there will be a nitrite increase later.
Salt In Freshwater Tank
Salt
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water. But it can be quite beneficial when used at the right time. It's not a bad idea to use short-term when helping fish ward off secondary diseases or when hoping to prevent them (such as after a location change, etc). It is also an effective treatment for certain problems:
As a cure for fungus, or to help relieving swelling, use can use a tablespoon of salt per gallon.
Use sodium chloride (Aquarium, rock, or kosher Salt) for fungus;
use magnesium sulfate (Epson Salt) for internal swelling or constipation.
These are appropriate concentrations for short term dips intended to last from 5-10 minutes, or up to 30 at longest. Use a teaspoon per gallon if you want to add this to the fish's tank as a live-in bath: change 25% of the water weekly and do not add additional salt.
The simple answer is that bettas do not like much salt in their water. Bettas will tolerate a certain amount of salt in their water; however, there is a limit. Salt will change the flow of water due to a change in the concentration. All fish will tolerate salt to some degree, but when there's too much they will dehydrate due to water flowing out of the creature. Saltwater fish have kidneys that allow them to expel excess salt while retaining their water. Freshwater fish do the opposite - they expel water because of the concentration gradient.
When using salt, you should use it for specific problems or needs. If you don't know when it's right, do some research. For example, FishEnthusiast.com notes that:
"Salt puts electrolytes in the water that stimulate production of the mucus coating that protects fish from infection. At the same time, it alters the chemical balance of the water, usually increasing the pH. Salt also helps inhibit bacterial growth at least the kind that seem to cause algal blooms in freshwater aquariums."
Salt assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the buildup of nitrite (useful when setting up new tanks: 1/2 ounce of salt per gallon), and is effective against some parasites. However, it is a double-edged sword; there are also some downfalls. For example, some plants and fish species cannot tolorate salt. This yet another reason you should do a little research before treating a problem. It is NOT advised to use salt with scaleless fish, particularly cordydoras. These species are particularly sensitive to salt, and even a small amount can harm them. Also, tetras are fairly sensitive to salt.
Extra note : Constipation
Constipation
Description:
Constipation is a fairly common problem with fish. It can occur due to lack of variety in diet. The fish's stomach will be swollen due to its inability to defecate. This may cause problems with buoyancy (similar to swim bladder disorder, where the fish is unable to swim properly and floats at the surface). Initially it is not dangerous to the fish but after several days secondary problems can occur: bacterial infection, damage to the swim bladder, or internal fluid leakage.
Treatment:
Fast the fish for about 3 days. The lack of food will give the fish's stomach time to process and purge, allowing its swelling to go down. At the end of the third day, if the fish is still having difficulty, it may require a longer fasting period. A betta can, at extreme, survive for a month without food (this is part of natural survival technique) so do not fear not feeding your betta for a few days. They are very durable fish. At the end of the fasting period, if you really want to ensure the system is flushed out, you can feed a bite-size portion of a cooked and de-shelled green pea to the fish. Or, daphnia can work as a natural laxative. This, too, will help to purge out the system.
Giving the fish a soak in a salt bath can also work as a laxative.
Prevention:
Vary the fish's diet more. Provide enough plant material, or with carnivores feed more live/frozen foods and less processed foods. Skipping feeding one day a week may be beneficial, as can eliminating pelleted food and also adding daphnia to their diet.
Internal Swelling :
Description:
Dropsy itself is not a disease, but rather a result of some other cause. Dropsy is a term given to the swelling that occurs internally in the fish. There are multiple possible causes. Sometimes it's not contageous, but sick fish should be isolated and treated since determining the actual cause may be impossible, and also because this will be easier on the fish.
The fish's body will become swelled with fluid it is unable to expel. Eventually the swelling will cause the scales to raise, giving the fish what is called the "pine-cone" appearance.
Diagnosis, One of these situations may be the culprit:
* Accute Dropsy: Sudden swelling: A bacterial infection will cause internal bleeding.
* Chronic Dropsy: Slow swelling: Growing tumors, or even parasites, in the fish may cause it to swell.
* Chronic Dropsy: Slow swelling: Mycobacterium tuberculosis. Highly contageous!
* Other unknown causes, such as a virus, or permanent damage to the fish's internal organs. Damage to kidneys can occur due to over-use of medication or use of too strong of medication.
Treatment:
It is difficult to treat, but in some cases where the problem is due to bacteria, if detected early enough, it can be treated. This is why you should closely examine the fish's environment for a bacterial problem, and deal with the source of the problem as a part of treatment and preventative.
By the time the scales begin to raise, however, it is very fatal to the fish. Salt baths can help to draw the fluid out of the fish. A variety of medications can be purchased that treat dropsy, which sometimes occurs due to an internal bacterial problem. Medications for external bacterial problems only will not be effective for this problem.
Gouramies and Cyprinids are highly susceptible to this disorder.
Photos:
The beginning stages of dropsy:
Salt :
Next time your fish is sick, the remedy might not be farther away than your kitchen table. Ordinary salt is a useful remedy for the prevention and treatment of several freshwater fish diseases. It assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the uptake of nitrite, and is effective against some parasites.
Before you go overboard using salt, be aware that some of the same benefits can be achieved by using a stress coat product. Furthermore, some plants and species fish cannot tolerate salt, so it must be used with care. In other words, salt is a double-edged sword.
When To Use Salt :
* Nitrite Poisoning - The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrite poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much, if any, salt.
* Parasites - Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations.
When Not To Use Salt
* Live plants - If you live plants in your aquarium, avoid using salt. Plants can be damaged with a relatively low dosage of salt, which is one reason it's best to treat sick fish in a hospital tank rather than your regular tank.
* Scaleless fish - Scaleless fish, particularly Cordydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt.
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water conditions.
Type and Quantity of Salt
Common table salt is suitable, however it should be non-iodized and contain no additives. Rock or Kosher salt are excellent choices, as they are straight sodium chloride with nothing else added.
The quantity will depend on how and what it is used for. A dip is a short exposure that is useful for the eradication of parasites. For dips a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour.
Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks.
Performing a Dip
When treating parasites, a dip is the method of choice. Place four teaspoons of salt in a clean bucket, then slowly add one gallon of water from the aquarium, swirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is completely dissolved, place the fish in the bucket for five to thirty minutes. Observe the fish closely, and if any signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the original aquarium immediately.
Performing a Bath
A bath is ideal when treating an entire tank for prevention of nitrite poisoning, or for reduction of stress.
For stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for each gallon if water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the to the tank.
For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out three teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the tank.
When using bath treatments, weekly water changes of 25% should begin one week after initial treatment. Do not add additional salt once bath treatments have begun.
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water. But it can be quite beneficial when used at the right time. It's not a bad idea to use short-term when helping fish ward off secondary diseases or when hoping to prevent them (such as after a location change, etc). It is also an effective treatment for certain problems:
As a cure for fungus, or to help relieving swelling, use can use a tablespoon of salt per gallon.
Use sodium chloride (Aquarium, rock, or kosher Salt) for fungus;
use magnesium sulfate (Epson Salt) for internal swelling or constipation.
These are appropriate concentrations for short term dips intended to last from 5-10 minutes, or up to 30 at longest. Use a teaspoon per gallon if you want to add this to the fish's tank as a live-in bath: change 25% of the water weekly and do not add additional salt.
The simple answer is that bettas do not like much salt in their water. Bettas will tolerate a certain amount of salt in their water; however, there is a limit. Salt will change the flow of water due to a change in the concentration. All fish will tolerate salt to some degree, but when there's too much they will dehydrate due to water flowing out of the creature. Saltwater fish have kidneys that allow them to expel excess salt while retaining their water. Freshwater fish do the opposite - they expel water because of the concentration gradient.
When using salt, you should use it for specific problems or needs. If you don't know when it's right, do some research. For example, FishEnthusiast.com notes that:
"Salt puts electrolytes in the water that stimulate production of the mucus coating that protects fish from infection. At the same time, it alters the chemical balance of the water, usually increasing the pH. Salt also helps inhibit bacterial growth at least the kind that seem to cause algal blooms in freshwater aquariums."
Salt assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the buildup of nitrite (useful when setting up new tanks: 1/2 ounce of salt per gallon), and is effective against some parasites. However, it is a double-edged sword; there are also some downfalls. For example, some plants and fish species cannot tolorate salt. This yet another reason you should do a little research before treating a problem. It is NOT advised to use salt with scaleless fish, particularly cordydoras. These species are particularly sensitive to salt, and even a small amount can harm them. Also, tetras are fairly sensitive to salt.
Extra note : Constipation
Constipation
Description:
Constipation is a fairly common problem with fish. It can occur due to lack of variety in diet. The fish's stomach will be swollen due to its inability to defecate. This may cause problems with buoyancy (similar to swim bladder disorder, where the fish is unable to swim properly and floats at the surface). Initially it is not dangerous to the fish but after several days secondary problems can occur: bacterial infection, damage to the swim bladder, or internal fluid leakage.
Treatment:
Fast the fish for about 3 days. The lack of food will give the fish's stomach time to process and purge, allowing its swelling to go down. At the end of the third day, if the fish is still having difficulty, it may require a longer fasting period. A betta can, at extreme, survive for a month without food (this is part of natural survival technique) so do not fear not feeding your betta for a few days. They are very durable fish. At the end of the fasting period, if you really want to ensure the system is flushed out, you can feed a bite-size portion of a cooked and de-shelled green pea to the fish. Or, daphnia can work as a natural laxative. This, too, will help to purge out the system.
Giving the fish a soak in a salt bath can also work as a laxative.
Prevention:
Vary the fish's diet more. Provide enough plant material, or with carnivores feed more live/frozen foods and less processed foods. Skipping feeding one day a week may be beneficial, as can eliminating pelleted food and also adding daphnia to their diet.
Internal Swelling :
Description:
Dropsy itself is not a disease, but rather a result of some other cause. Dropsy is a term given to the swelling that occurs internally in the fish. There are multiple possible causes. Sometimes it's not contageous, but sick fish should be isolated and treated since determining the actual cause may be impossible, and also because this will be easier on the fish.
The fish's body will become swelled with fluid it is unable to expel. Eventually the swelling will cause the scales to raise, giving the fish what is called the "pine-cone" appearance.
Diagnosis, One of these situations may be the culprit:
* Accute Dropsy: Sudden swelling: A bacterial infection will cause internal bleeding.
* Chronic Dropsy: Slow swelling: Growing tumors, or even parasites, in the fish may cause it to swell.
* Chronic Dropsy: Slow swelling: Mycobacterium tuberculosis. Highly contageous!
* Other unknown causes, such as a virus, or permanent damage to the fish's internal organs. Damage to kidneys can occur due to over-use of medication or use of too strong of medication.
Treatment:
It is difficult to treat, but in some cases where the problem is due to bacteria, if detected early enough, it can be treated. This is why you should closely examine the fish's environment for a bacterial problem, and deal with the source of the problem as a part of treatment and preventative.
By the time the scales begin to raise, however, it is very fatal to the fish. Salt baths can help to draw the fluid out of the fish. A variety of medications can be purchased that treat dropsy, which sometimes occurs due to an internal bacterial problem. Medications for external bacterial problems only will not be effective for this problem.
Gouramies and Cyprinids are highly susceptible to this disorder.
Photos:
The beginning stages of dropsy:
Salt :
Next time your fish is sick, the remedy might not be farther away than your kitchen table. Ordinary salt is a useful remedy for the prevention and treatment of several freshwater fish diseases. It assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the uptake of nitrite, and is effective against some parasites.
Before you go overboard using salt, be aware that some of the same benefits can be achieved by using a stress coat product. Furthermore, some plants and species fish cannot tolerate salt, so it must be used with care. In other words, salt is a double-edged sword.
When To Use Salt :
* Nitrite Poisoning - The addition of one half ounce of salt per gallon of water is beneficial in the prevention of nitrite poisoning in a newly set up tank. Keep in mind that scaleless fish cannot tolerate much, if any, salt.
* Parasites - Many parasites can be effectively treated with the use of salt, particularly Costia infestations.
When Not To Use Salt
* Live plants - If you live plants in your aquarium, avoid using salt. Plants can be damaged with a relatively low dosage of salt, which is one reason it's best to treat sick fish in a hospital tank rather than your regular tank.
* Scaleless fish - Scaleless fish, particularly Cordydoras, are very sensitive to salt. Even a small amount could harm them. Tetras are also somewhat sensitive to salt.
Contrary to popular view, it is not advisable to add salt to your aquarium on an ongoing basis unless the fish require brackish water conditions.
Type and Quantity of Salt
Common table salt is suitable, however it should be non-iodized and contain no additives. Rock or Kosher salt are excellent choices, as they are straight sodium chloride with nothing else added.
The quantity will depend on how and what it is used for. A dip is a short exposure that is useful for the eradication of parasites. For dips a 3% solution is generally used for up to a half hour.
Baths are essentially treating the entire tank, and are useful for treatment of stress, nitrite poisoning, as well as some parasites. Salt concentrations for a bath are lower, 1% or less, and are used for up to three weeks.
Performing a Dip
When treating parasites, a dip is the method of choice. Place four teaspoons of salt in a clean bucket, then slowly add one gallon of water from the aquarium, swirling it to dissolve the salt. Once the salt is completely dissolved, place the fish in the bucket for five to thirty minutes. Observe the fish closely, and if any signs of distress are observed, return the fish to the original aquarium immediately.
Performing a Bath
A bath is ideal when treating an entire tank for prevention of nitrite poisoning, or for reduction of stress.
For stress treatment, measure out one teaspoon of salt for each gallon if water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the to the tank.
For treatment and prevention of nitrite poisoning, measure out three teaspoons of salt for each gallon of water in the tank. Using a small container, dissolve the salt in a small quantity of water taken from the tank. Once it is completely dissolved, slowly add the solution to the tank.
When using bath treatments, weekly water changes of 25% should begin one week after initial treatment. Do not add additional salt once bath treatments have begun.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
32种龙鱼疾病 病因、症状、疗法
一、立鳞病
☆病因
酸碱跟温度的突变、剧降的水温、氨的积累、细菌感染。最常袭击十—二·十公分的幼鱼。不过，偶尔也会有成鱼得此病。此乃十分危险的病症，为幼龙鱼的首号杀手、
☆症状
龙鱼在转弯时可清楚看到几片鱼鳞突出来，受影响的鱼或许会停止进食。与此同时，鱼的颜色也会转暗、很快地，更多的鳞片会突出来，鱼亦显得格外的肿胀跟肥胖。这在你由上往下看时尤其明显。当肩部亡即头部后面)的鳞片突出寸，这表示鱼已经进人此病症的末期了。有些鱼可能还会失去保持平衡的功能呢。如果不及寸治疗，鱼会于四—五天内死亡，死去的鱼会因为鳞片再次变平而恢复正常的外形。
☆疗法
把病鱼隔绝开来，另置于一复原缸里。这是因为水族箱两成的鱼有时候可能会在同一时间里得到此病。接连五天，每天定时进行90％的换水工作[只用旧水而已]。每一天除了给一百公升的水加入两—三克的特土拉塞科淋[1elracycline、抗菌黄色药粉)、0．3％盐正即在每一百公升的水里面加人三百克的盐)跟些许黑色素水[特土拉塞科淋在软水里更能发挥其功效)，还得把水温增高到三十三摄氏度。在这五天的疗程进行当中，停止给龙鱼喂食，并增加氧气设备。这是因为分解在水中的氧气会随着温度的增高而下降。
如果及早予以治疗，鱼儿复原的机率是颇高的、除了鳞片会扁平下去外，复原中的鱼也会开始进食+要不然的话，亢让鱼休息两天才再开始另一轮五天的疗程。每天换水的一个小时前，切切记得先把加热器关掉以避免鱼因为水温的变化而休克。
再者，特土拉塞科淋会影响水族箱的生化过滤这一事实也是不容忽视的、有鉴于此，寸寸保持水质的优良，以不含或者只含微量氨的水为宜。要注意的是，治疗时的用水应该保持在pH值六·五左右以便加强鱼对氨的抵抗力。
二、内出血
☆病因
细菌感染导致龙鱼的肝脏、肠脏、心脏均出血。通常发生在—卜—公分的幼鱼身上，乃致命性十分高的一种病症。
☆症状
龙鱼身体的某一小部分，通常就在其左鳃盖的后方，会发红-鱼儿在停止进食的同时，颜色也会转暗、如果不加以治疗，这一小片的红斑或会扩大，并在两—三天内置鱼儿于死地-
☆疗法
往往不会产生预期中的效果。然，及早的发现对挽救鱼儿的性命或许会有所帮助。将鱼隔离开来，并增加水温以及使用特土拉塞科淋[telfacycline)跟盐来给其进行一个五天的疗程[请参阅以上立鳞病的疗法)、假如鱼还能够进食的话，先把一些九状或者碎片状的饵料浸泡在特土拉塞科淋里才予以喂食；体形较大的鱼则可尝试将之注射人其体内。
三、腹液的积累
☆病因
细菌感染、肠脏的毛病、不良的饵料、此病往往发生在十—二十公分的幼鱼身上，为高度致命的鱼病。
☆症状
鱼停止进食、胃的部位变得肿胀、肛门发红。随着腹液越积越多而影响其鳔囊的功能，鱼儿将会头部朝下，尾部朝上地失去平衡。
☆疗法
把鱼隔离开来之后施予五天的特土拉塞科淋[telracycline)疗程[参阅以上立鳞病的治疗法)。又或者，另一个只可以使用在病情严重之龙鱼身上的办法是将一支手术用的细幼注射器刺人两片鱼鳞之间的肿胀部位。跟着慢慢地把腹液从鱼的腹腔抽出-曾经有过一次，十毫升的液体竟然从一条二十公分长的龙鱼体内被抽了出来。接着加人盐及将水温增高至三十三摄氏度，鱼或许需要五—七天的时间方可痊愈。
四、肠寄生虫
☆病因
龙鱼的胃部长有带虫正白)、圆虫[红褐)或者刺头虫[白里透黄)、时常发生于刚刚被釆收／引进的鱼，也可以通过活饵被感染。
☆症状
鱼儿经常无精打采地栖息在水族箱的一个角落、胃部膨胀起来、不肯进食、随着时间一天天过去，鱼儿也越来越瘦弱，水族箱的底部有时候甚至可以看到一—两公分的白色虫。
☆疗法
假若侵入龙鱼体内的寄生虫不会太多，此病一般不会被发现。在这种情况下，鱼儿可能根本就无需治疗。不过鱼要是显得非常衰弱与停止进食的话，治疗便得立刻进行了。方法是，接连两天的时间给一百公升的水加入一克的酶特罗尼达佐尔[Metronidazole、白色的粉末)，一星期三个疗程。此外，每一次加入药物时还得进行了15%-20％的换水工作才行。通过这个办法，鱼儿应该很快便可以进食了，表示它已经复原。
五、鳃盖翻转
☆病因
有三种原因可能导致这种状况的发生。水族箱无论在长度和宽度都太小；水里分解的氧气不充足；差劣的水质，例如氨的积累，都是，这个现象通常发生在成鱼的身上，并且只有在太迟采取行动来治疗的时候才会致命。
☆症状
正常的鳃盖跟包围着它的半透明软组织应该是扁干的，并紧紧贴着龙鱼的身体、当此状况发生寸，半透明的组织看起来就象是被翻转了过来似的，或者更直接一点的是，被翻起来了。这在鱼背对着你游泳的时候最为明显、病发初期，鱼儿的呼吸尽管会有些不规律，但还是照样可以进食，可是一旦鱼血红色的鳃线条露出来的时候，它即会停止进食和变得气喘吁吁，而且还会不寸地游到水面拼命吸气，这乃因为鳃线条受到细菌感染所致。到了最后，鱼儿会因为丧失其鳃的功能而窒息死去。论盐分，淡水鱼的体液比它周围的水来得高。因此，鱼儿的鳃会通过渗透作用[osmosis]让水进入其体内。另一方面，同样的鳃也会通过散布作用把体内的盐排出。这整个被鱼用来控制其体内盐跟水份平衡的过程叫作渗透调节作用。是以，海水鱼跟淡水鱼进行渗透调节作用的方向相反。
☆疗法
鉴于龙鱼一般可长至五十—六十公分长，所以一个一百二十公分x四十五公分x四十五公分的水族箱对这样的鱼来说确实略嫌小了些、它的身体因为比水箱的宽度还要长而不能够很j顷畅和完全地转弯。在这样狭窄的水箱待久了，鱼儿的鳃自然就会翻起来了。
根据粗略的估计，用宋饲养龙鱼的水箱起码必须比鱼身长三倍或者更多。同样的，水箱的宽度能否让鱼儿轻而易举地转弯亦是十分重要的。基于这一切，用一个一百五十公分x六十公分x四十五公分的水箱来饲养一条五十公分的龙鱼应该会比较理想。
分解在水中的氧气可用一昂贵的电子计表来测量，以五ppm及以上的读数为最佳。读数若小过五就表示氧气量不足够应付鱼鳃线条的正常功能，鱼儿因此得不停地在水面吸气。假如你在水族箱里养了八—九条各十五公分的龙鱼，可以使用一水中式过滤器或者三—四颗的充气球来确保饲育水的氧气供应充足。
若氨和亚硝酸的含量偏高，那就得在情况尚未恶化之前增加换水的次数来改善水质。如果水族箱只养了一条鱼，每隔一天便要换掉一半的水，一直到情况好转为止反之，如果养的是八—九条各十五公分的鱼，则每天都必须进行90％的换水工作。
假若以上的办法皆无效，而半透明的组织亦硬化了，不妨尝试以最后一项对策，即外科手术，来治疗、你只需一些苯佐卡因[benz。c山ne)或者奎那定(Quinal山ne)麻醉剂、手套、消过毒的手术剪刀跟消毒药粉即可，无用一个盛了少许水的袋子把鱼装起来，再倒人规定剂量的麻醉刑，麻醉药一定得严格按照所规定的剂量使用，否则鱼儿将会长眠不起。鱼在三— 五分钟内即会失去平衡，跟着肚子朝天、此时的它对触摸亦毫无反应、接下来把鱼置于一千净的湿台面／布上，戴上手套之后开始沿着半圆形组织把卷曲的部分剪掉。又或者，以剪刀尖朝向鱼目的方向沿着卷曲的组织切割几刀。这两个方法皆行得通。最后给鱼儿遭切割的地方敷上一些消毒药粉。手术终于大功告成。
在增加水族箱的氧气设备后把鱼放回。龙鱼应可于几分钟后恢复知觉。其后再保持水质的优良，好让鱼恢复体力。加入少许的盐，并在两—三天后才再开始喂食鱼儿，
六、鱼目混浊
☆病因
擦伤的鱼目、细菌感染、差劣的水质。此乃龙鱼极为普遍的毛病，不管大小都一样。可能导致继发感染。多数的时候都不会致死，但会造成眼睛失明。
☆症状
部分眼睛可见一层白色的膜。这层白膜到了后来会把整只眼睛都给覆盖住。通常只有一只眼睛受影响，不过有时候也会两只眼睛同时受到影响、鱼儿可以照样进食，行为也没有什么异样-如果不尽早应对这个问题，鱼儿受影响的那只眼睛很可能会失明。千万别将混浊的鱼眼睛跟失明的鱼眼睛混淆了，因为后一种情况的眼球已转为白色，已经没有办法再补救了。
另一种截然不同的情况是眼球的中央及周围已转成白色。又或者是眼球晶状体的外沿有一些呈白色的生长物，这主要是由受到细菌感染的破裂 晶状体所引起的、
☆疗法
如果是眼睛上普通的白膜，只要确保水质的优良即可。加入一些0．3％的盐跟增加换水的次数，龙鱼应可在三—四天里痊愈。
至于较为严重的细菌感染，则必须用特土拉塞科淋[tetracycline)跟0．3％盐[也就是在一百公升的水里加入三百克的盐)来配合三十三摄氏度的水治疗了。鱼或者需要三—五个月的时间才会痊愈。
据所知，差劣的水质也会造成鱼的眼睛混浊。龙鱼最适合在pH值介于六·五到七·五之间的酸性水里生存。要是水的pH值一直居高不下，比如说八的话，那鱼的眼睛可能就会慢慢地变得混浊。在这种情形之下，不妨以泥炭[peat]作为滤材或者加入磷酸来降低pH值。
七、皮肤病
☆病因
疏于换水的工作、氨的积累、以活性炭作为滤材。较常发生在过背金 龙亡马宋西亚金龙)的身上。有可能会致命。
☆症状
有些鳞片看起来好象是在溶解似的，使龙鱼子人一种歪歪斜斜的感觉。直线上的细孔会随着时间一天天的过去而变大。到了末期，连头部周围的 鱼皮也开始腐蚀了-
☆疗法
在用蓝美特尼[methylene blue)、青美拉再[malachite green)跟 0．3％盐来治疗的同时，把水温增高至三十三摄氏度、定期换水以保持良好的水质，龙鱼应可在一个月内恢复健康。
假若龙鱼的美态对你来说是极度重要的，那你可以通过手术来去除其身上歪曲的鳞片。先把鱼麻醉之后用钳子将损坏的鳞片取出。大约一—两个月后，新的鱼鳞又会自被拔除的鳞片所在之处漂亮地长出来了．
八、白点病
☆病因
这是由一种被称为“邑克”的原始寄生物所导致的鱼病，这些寄生物把自己附在鱼鳞的最外层以便吸食鱼的体液跟身体组织，并且会在高温下，例如二十五摄氏度，繁殖得更加迅速。差劣的水质、把鱼从一个水箱转移到另一个水箱、刚被采收的鱼苗和刚被引进的鱼都可能是罪魁祸首。相当容易治疗，也不会致命。
☆症状
一点一点的白色小斑点会布满龙鱼的全身，尤其是鱼的鳍、鳃盖和头部。这些小白点有时会因为集中在一起生长而变成一整块的白斑。到了后期，当这些寄生物侵入龙鱼的鳃线条的时候，鱼儿的呼吸率就会有上升的迹象。
☆疗法
这是淡水鱼中最为普遍的疾病之一。因此，市面上应该不难找到许多不同的商业药刑。把水温增高到三十三摄氏度后，再用蓝美特尼[methylene blue)、青美拉再[malachiteGreen)和0．3％盐予以治疗。假如三—四天还不能够治好病鱼的话，且让鱼儿先休息一两天再重复整个疗程，直至寄生物全被消灭为止。若及早予以治疗，此病极少会对鱼的性命构成威胁。
九、锚虫和鱼虱
☆病因
由身上带有这种寄生物的活饵，例如金鱼、孔雀鱼和青蛙以及刚被引进的龙鱼传播开来。相当容易治疗，也不会致命。
☆症状
锚虫是身体细长的寄生物亡长二十厘米左右)、而鱼虱则是呈圆形的平面甲壳生物[直径十厘米左右)。由于体形大，因此只用肉眼是可以看到这些附在鱼鳍和身体的寄生物的。受到感染的鱼会没有食欲和消瘦。它们还会紧贴着水族箱内其他的物品来搔痒呢，试图以这个方法来去除身上的寄生物。但是却徒劳无功。
☆疗法
一点都不困难，所以不会致命。只需要用钳子把成熟的锚虫从鱼体拔出即可。这些成熟的锚虫都是身体末端长有两个卵囊的母虫。因此，下一个步骤便是把所有刚孵出来便在水里游泳的幼虫消灭。要是在温度提高到三十三摄氏度的水里加入0．3％盐这个办法一点都不奏效的话，那就改用可以安全使用的杀虫剂吧，如抗寄生物的商业药剂。施药时得严格遵照指示来进行。过后还必须密切留意鱼儿有没有对药物产生任何不良的反应。这个方法也可以用来消灭鱼虱。
十、腐鳍病
☆病因
细菌感染、差劣的水质，特别是当氨的含量偏高的时候、疏于换水的工作、拥挤的水族箱、刚被引进的龙鱼。此病不难治疗，所以不会致命。
☆症状
龙鱼的鳍，尤其是尾鳍，裂开或者因为周围出现了白色的边缘而看似被撕破的感觉。此病不可跟咬尾与打架混淆。鱼的食欲和行为一切正常。
☆疗法
通过增加换水的次数来改善水质。加入0．3％盐跟一种可以用来对抗腐鳍病的商业药剂。鱼儿可能需要两—三个星期才能完全复原。跟白点病 一样，此病是淡水鱼中最为普遍的疾病。
十一、眼睛下垂[掉眼]
☆起因
这往往不被当成是一种疾病，故此无需过分担忧。这个问题多数发生在龙成鱼的身上；而绝少在幼鱼的身上。更何况，只有在水族箱内被饲养的龙鱼才会出现这种状况；池塘里饲养的不会。导致这个问题发生的原因有三、第一是在眼窝积累的脂肪组织；再来是会反射光线的玻璃水族箱；还有就是给饲养在高耸水族箱里的龙鱼喂食会沉淀到箱子底部的饵料。掉眼根本不会致命。
☆征状
龙鱼的一或者两只眼睛看似已经不在眼窝的位置了。尽管这种状况不会给龙鱼的健康和性命带来任何的威胁，可是却会大大地影响鱼的美感。
☆疗法
有些资深的龙鱼鱼主成功通过外科手术把龙鱼眼窝的脂肪组织切除。将鱼麻醉之后即可用简单的钳子把脂肪组织去除。然而，要令人满意地完成这项任务却需要稳健和纯熟的手法。否则的话，龙鱼可能就此失明。除非你已经别无其他更好的解决办法，不然还是别进行这项手术为妙。
更有一些人把一只手伸进水里抓牢龙鱼的身体来使其头部露出水面，另一只手则强而有力地将下垂的鱼眼按回原位，也就是眼窝里。这个办法因为危险性低，所以会比第一个方法更加可取。除非鱼摆动得厉害，否则根本就用不上麻醉剂。
鱼眼刚开始下垂的时候，不妨用不透光的布料或者纸皮把水族箱整个遮盖起来。情况或可在光线反射减至最低的两—四个月里好转。
假如一切的办法都行不通，而龙鱼又是一向来被饲养在高耸的水族箱里，那就尝试把鱼移到另一个比较靠近地面的水箱吧。与此同时，尽量以会在水面飘浮的饵料来喂食龙鱼。这样，龙鱼就不必为了找寻沉淀到水箱底部的饵料而老是往下看了。
十二、 鳔囊的疾病
☆病因
只有十—十五公分的幼龙鱼才会出现这个问题、如此幼小的龙鱼，鲳囊因为不知何故积存了过多的空气而功能失常。不会致命的毛病。
☆症状
鳔囊出了毛病的鱼头部会一直对着水族箱的底部；尾部则对着天花板、从来没有经历过这种情景的人看了或许会觉得怪，甚至是可怕，鱼的腹部会肿胀，不过可千万别把此腹部肿胀跟上面提到由腹液积累所引起的腹部肿胀给混淆了，鱼在其他的时候会表现得很正常，特别在进食时有些龙鱼或许会在几个月后自然痊愈。 ☆疗法
可能不需要治疗，除非鱼因为感到不舒服而拼命地挣扎着想要恢复正常的泳姿。比较安全的作法是将有问题的鱼置人一个水深只有五—八公分相等于鱼体宽度的水箱里、加入0．3％盐，并把水温增高至三十三摄氏度，另一作法是用一个只装了浅浅的水的塑胶袋将鱼包起来，在注入氧气之后[如同给输出的鱼做好准备一般)加入少许的盐。第二天[不得超过二十四小时)即可将鱼放出来、这个办法或许会有效，因为鱼的渗透调节作用能够使其恢复正常的泳姿。这个疗法一两天后可能需要再重复一遍。
若是一切的方法均不见效，最后的办法便唯有使用一支细幼的手术用注射器将鱼体肿胀部位内过多的空气抽出来。幼鱼无需麻醉，只需将之置放于一干净的湿布上即可。以快而准的手法完成之后马上把鱼放回水族箱里。它应该很快便可以正常地在水里游了、这或许有重复的必要。
十三、 断鳍／尾的现象
☆起因
由龙鱼自一个水箱被转移到另一个水箱时因为受惊而作出的挣扎反应引起、其他也有可能是在选购、鱼输出的途中或者换水的时候引起的，此外，用来装鱼的袋子如果太小也会导致这种情况的发生。一般发生于二十公分的幼鱼身上，其中又以过背金龙最有可能出现这种根本不足以致命的状况
☆征状
龙鱼的尾鳍、背鳍或腹鳍就象壁虎的尾巴一样，很多时候会一整片或者是有些时候的一部分掉落出来。结果留下一条没有尾巴／鳍，模样怪异的鱼。奇怪的是，尾巴／鳍断裂的地方竟然不会流血。
☆疗法
可千万别误以为这是—种病态来的，其实不然。十五—二十公分的幼鱼会比四十—五十公分的成鱼复原得快-想要鱼的尾巴／鳍长回以前的长度可能需要好几个月的时间，不过却难再回复当年美。尽管尾巴／鳍的形状可能不再象从前那般漂亮，但你还是要接受这个事实。除非你想通过修剪参差不齐的部分来使鱼的尾鳍再一次漂亮起来。加入盐跟复原素 [Acfinavine]宋加速伤口处的愈合。
十四、胃壁分泌物
☆起因
不详。经常发生于十—二十公分的幼鱼身上，为不足以致命的一种现象。
☆征状
水面飘浮着细细幼幼或者一整块的棕褐色胶状物体。幼鱼的可长达 两—三公分，鱼儿的行为和食欲均正常。
☆疗法
无，确保水质的优良。
十五、咬尾的现象
☆起因
不详。可能是鱼因为全新的环境或者空间太过狭窄而表现出来的一种焦虑行为， .
☆征状
可别将此与上述提及的断尾现象混淆了。断尾是鱼儿身上一整个部分的鳍／尾巴断裂出来了；而咬尾则是指龙鱼本身竟然把头转到后面去一小口一小口地咬噬自己的尾巴，使其呈献一种凹凸不平的样子，所以伤口不似前者的那般乎直。
☆疗法
十六、脊柱弯曲
☆征状
症状是鱼的脊柱弯曲成S形。
☆起因
可能是由于稚鱼期使用药物不当、水质不良加上运定量不足或营养不良造成。
☆疗法
治疗几乎不可能，关键在于预防、保持水质清洁、注意营养均衡而充分、尽量预防其它的鱼病并尽量不要使用药物、放入扬水马达增加鱼的运动量、水族箱要尽量的大。
十七、脂肪过多
☆征状
原因是摄食过多。
☆起因
运动有不足自然就会长得象个猪啦。不会死的但会减寿和造成无法产卵。
☆疗法
1、每周选1－2天停食。 2、放入扬水马达或选几条龙鱼配胖鱼一起玩以增加运动量。
十八、厌食症
☆征状
病鱼整天不进食，趴在缸底一动不动。
☆起因
水质又没问题，正常得不得了。这是水中环境变化使鱼有紧迫感造成的。
☆疗法
更换饵料来慢慢的使鱼适应。
十九、龙须打结
☆起因
水质不佳，导致食欲不好、没有元气，因而有这种情形。
☆疗法
可换水改善水质，增进食即可。
二十、鱼鳞蛀蚀
☆起因
鱼鳞蛀掉，有两种可能。1.长期下药2.感染体外寄生虫。
☆疗法
前者换水减低药量即可，后者要下杀体外寄生虫药。
二十一、鱼体失衡症、
☆起因
如果毛病不是由其他疾病引起，那么问题可能是鱼鳔的机能失常，也可能是是运动不足和过量投饵,导致胃肠障害（粪和脂肪阻塞着鱼鳔里面的空气不能调节而太多空气在里面才使鱼腹向上，还可能是因为先天性平衡失调，也可能是是水中的氨氮过多，使鱼中毒。
☆征状
鱼不能控制它们在水里的位置，有时只有尽最大的努力才能从水底升起来；有时不能离开水面，甚至在水面上倒置。
☆疗法
对于这种状况，没有有效的治疗方法，所以把水温提高是希望帮助肠胃活动好一点和鱼也会比较活发从而回复调节机能），用肠胃药（人类用的也可以）混合饵来喂! 由于此病是冷水诱发的，把温度略微升高加上中度（1%）的盐水浴常常能缓解病症。投喂水蚤或虫子改善消化有助于治疗。加强换水，保持水质稳定，试投喂各种抗生素。
二十二、出血病
☆起因
引起鱼患出血病的因素较为复杂，一般有病毒性、细菌性和环境因素的影响引发、
1．病毒、细菌(一般认为由单胞杆菌)和寄生虫侵害鱼体致使鱼体周身或局部受损。
2．水质关系 不管用自来水养鱼，还是湖水或井水养鱼，需经过静置或曝晒2—3天后，才可使用。如果不经过处理直接使用，轻则使鳍鳞充血，重则会使鱼致死。
☆征状
周身鳍(基部更甚)、鳞间或局部充血、溢血、溃疡、鳞片脱落；重则口腔、眼及内脏均有出血现象，病鱼呆浮或沉底懒游，轻者食欲减退，重者拒食、体色暗淡、消瘦、分泌物增加，并发细菌性水霉病、败血症而死亡。
☆疗法
(1)除注意上述致病因素的预防外，在溢血处检查有无寄生虫，有则捉除。同时，用红汞涂擦患处，然后放在小盆中漂洗一下再放回原池(缸)静养，每天1次，痊愈为止。
(2)把病鱼放入10—20毫克/升的呋喃西林或痢特灵的药液或2％一3％的盐水中浸泡10一15分钟后，过洗入池(缸)，隔天1次。
(3)严重者在10千克水中，加入100万单位的卡那霉素或8万一16万单位的庆大霉素，病鱼水浴静养2—3小时，多则半天后换入新水饲养。每天1次，一般2—3次即可。
二十三、吐胃袋
☆起因
龙鱼吐胃袋一般有两种情况：
（1）龙鱼这种骨舌科的鱼类，虽然是很强壮的鱼种，但对水质的过度变动却很敏感，但通常适应能力也很好，往往在变动的水质水温之中，可以在三至六个小时之内便能适应，但是若在适应环境变动的期间，让鱼吃的太多。
（2）是吃了不容易消化的食物或是带有尖刺的东西，让鱼的胃不舒服。
☆疗法
（1）这种情况很像是人晕车一样，所以我们在换水的前后三个小时不会让鱼进食，有的朋友甚至会在换水的这一天当中，完全让龙鱼禁食，其目的便是为了让鱼能调适水质的变化，龙鱼的呕吐现像可大可小，吐出来的胃袋这种东西，其实是龙鱼的胃酸包膜，但若处理不当持续呕吐的话，严重的会直接对鱼造成伤害。
（2）鱼的胃是真的一根肠子通到底，食道一进去紧接着前肠之后，便是主胃消化系统，但在食道跟前肠的接口处下方，是龙鱼的心脏部份，在消化道的上方则是鱼鳔，所以为什么要在喂虾时，拔掉虾箭，除了怕鱼刺伤消化系统也怕伤了这些重要器官，若仅是小伤消化系统，这是没有关系的，鱼会因应自己的生理反应机制，而有所谓吐胃袋的自我保护方式，若是这种情况，可以检查吐出了什么。
以上二种是最常见的吐胃袋情况，但还有其它情况也会造成，只不过机率较少罢了，因此常常注意受鱼的行为有助于爱鱼的健康成长。
二十四、红斑病（又稱打印病、開穴病或紅丹毒症）
☆起因
病毒性疾病，可以说是绝症。
☆征状
多出現在魚身後半段，初期產生紅色紋塊，繼而紅斑部位腫脹，鱗片翻翹，最後潰爛而死。
☆疗法
可以尝试将水温提高到36摄氏度，并用口服抗生素结合药浴。建议试试黑拿敏。
二十五、洞头症
☆起因
（情況一、營養缺乏）這是長期飼食同一種飼料或餌料所造成的營養性疾病。
（情況二、體內原生虫）由原生虫之寄生所引起（頭槽絛蟲、毛細線蟲、六鞭毛蟲）
☆征状
感染魚隻會有抖動身體、不安、食慾減退的狀況產生。
☆疗法
（情況一、營養缺乏）可先以「維他命」補充其營養並觀察是否有明顯改善。
（情況二、體內原生虫）可用「七彩專用除體內原生虫藥」進行治療，藥劑須依指示再減半使用。
二十六、蝕斑症
☆起因
其肇因為「致病菌」所引發，此症不會立即影響龍魚之性命，但很難在短時間內治癒，可能須花點時間。☆征状
外觀類似頭洞症，不過症狀是呈現腐爛撥落的情形。
☆疗法
市售黃藥只能治療較初級的細菌感染疾病，對於此病及紅斑症、腹水症似乎無明顯療效，我不建議使用「抗生素」，您可以選購「t牌萬能水」或「抑萬菌」等特效藥試試。倘若仍然無改善情形，可能得將龍魚移到它缸繼續藥浴，舊缸與過濾設備須以福瑪林消毒並洗淨後再重新養水設缸。
二十七、缩鯺
☆起因
缩鳍原因很多，应当说，小龙只要用心照顾，是可以避免缩鳍的。
☆疗法
一旦缩鳍，需要仔细分析，对症调理。缩鳍的原因及调理方法：1、老头鱼、长期营养不良，鱼厌食，状态不好，难调理。2、大缸小鱼、小龙精神紧张，大缸饲养，一般在一角游动，当离开自己的安全范围，会缩鳍快速游动，久之会有游动缩鳍的毛病，调理时需用隔板隔开小空间，使其适应，慢慢随着成长扩大空间。3、水质不良、鱼体状态不好，伴随卧缸、尾部下垂、游动缓慢、少食和体表反映；调理方法，换水，改善水质，升温打气。4、环境因素、温度低、灯光强、水流急，都有可能引发缩鳍，检查设备，进行调整。5、外寄、鱼虱、箭虫、小瓜虫等外寄影响，鱼体状态不好，缩鳍，同时有摩擦身体，扭动、撞缸表现，调理方法为对症除去外寄生虫。6、内寄、最不容易确定，有时鱼体排泄不好，同时状态下降，用waterlife内寄药物检疫。7、精神不好、单养或者捞出混养鱼有时发生，原因是孤独与缺乏斗志，调理方法是增加混养鱼，或者用玻璃隔开，对面放一条比其小的龙鱼，加以诱导。其实缩鳍只要细心是可以避免和恢复的，调理时根据情况讲究方式方法就可以了。
二十八、水霉病
☆起因
疏于换水的工作、水质变差，氨的积累、以活性炭作为滤材。
☆征状
其病菌附身在鱼的伤口处，为灰白色。肉眼可看出在鱼的伤口，有如棉絮纤维覆盖般，鱼只游动不稳健并会磨擦底材或缸壁止痒，身体慢慢虚弱、食欲减退，逐渐衰竭而死。
☆疗法
可以盐浴法并配合高温治疗，或选用抑万菌、专治霉菌感染的药剂亦可。
二十九、脱缸
☆起因
消化不良；疾病并发症，最常发生在25㎝以下的幼鱼阶段，当吃食「较硬(尤以干燥黑壳虾、附壳溪虾为最)」或「吸水度差」的饵料时，某些消化系统较差的个体会产生肛门突出的现象。
☆疗法
通常『禁食』一段日子后即可慢慢自行回复，若担心它饿，饵食最好采用刚脱壳的白身面包虫or泡软的人工饲料。另外「肠胃炎」与「腹水症」也会伴随着肛门红肿。鱼友的幼龙若是属此类病因，可至七彩专卖店购买肠胃用药治疗。有玩家建议可买注射用庆大霉素或氯霉素，先注射到活饵体内再给龙儿吃，以便消炎，最好两、三日一次，药剂也不要施予太多，龙鱼是很聪明的，药太苦、次数太多它就不吃了。
三十、胡椒病
☆起因
由体外虫所感染。
☆征状
其肇因与白点病雷同，亦是有如黏在表面一般，不过外观比白点病还要细小，颜色也较米白偏黄色，感染的鱼只初期并无大碍，但晚期体表会有粘膜增生(易引发细菌感染)的情形，值得注意。
☆疗法
可使用一般的万能水治疗，并每隔几日适量换水与追加药剂，直到鱼只痊愈。
三十一、胡须长瘤
☆起因
最常发生在具有「磨缸」习惯的龙鱼身上，由于长期的磨损造成胡须表皮组织受伤，又基于水质不良、病原的影响引爆出发炎肿胀的现象。
☆征状
须部长出一小颗、一小颗的肉瘤，远看好似刷子一般，常被误以为是霉菌感染！
☆疗法
长期性的水质改善多半会不药而愈。若玩家觉得碍眼，最快的方法是先将龙鱼麻醉，然后用手把肉瘤刮除，最后在伤口上抹一些黄药，水里也下些黄药预防伤口细菌感染。 不过有些个体过阵子可能会再长出小肉瘤，此时运用麻醉手术直接将胡须剪断(断病根)使其重长，日后新长出来的胡须就不会再乱长异物了。但龙鱼与人类相同，随着年纪的增长复原速度也会跟着拉长，值得深思！另外亦有鱼友『移新缸』后痘子消退的情形，因为原缸的水已严重恶化(含有刺激杂质)，适度换水也无济于事。过度喂食「浓缩营养素」亦会造成龙须长出异物，这点玩家宜特别注意！
三十二、肿斑病
☆起因
这种病一般杂志都没有记载，算是一种很特殊且不多见的龙鱼专属怪病。
☆征状
它看起来很像白点病但颗粒较大、较凸些，外观上有如长白色肉瘤一般，一样也是先从鳍面再延伸到身体，严重时通常会伴随着胡须长痘痘，甚至眼球上也会滋长，当数目陆续增加时，您会发现好象大部份并排在末三鳍的边缘，有时候还会有白色分泌物产生！
☆疗法
此病非常棘手，以前有龙友就有一尾青龙曾发生过此怪病，在未确实知道病因时，下过各大知名品牌的细菌、霉菌、体内虫、体外虫、万能水…但都只能稍有好转而无法完全根治。这种怪病与前述两种疾病最大的不同点就是『再怎么严重也不会影响食欲』！后来我认为还是『着重于水质』算了，也不管它了，不过换水频率有明显增加，后来长达半年的时间才不药而愈。同样的怪病我也曾在某知名量贩店的黄金红龙身上看到，当时询问业者，但他本身吱呜其词也搞不清楚状况(毕竟此症不多见)，只顾着胡乱介绍一些与主题无关紧要的化学治剂，当然他的龙自己本身也治不好！后来我观察到此店家在更换店面并『换缸』后鱼只就不药而愈了。从前述我们可以了解水质应该才是主要的重点，所以问题就出在旧缸的水。
http://longyu.cc/viewthread.php?tid=4839
☆病因
酸碱跟温度的突变、剧降的水温、氨的积累、细菌感染。最常袭击十—二·十公分的幼鱼。不过，偶尔也会有成鱼得此病。此乃十分危险的病症，为幼龙鱼的首号杀手、
☆症状
龙鱼在转弯时可清楚看到几片鱼鳞突出来，受影响的鱼或许会停止进食。与此同时，鱼的颜色也会转暗、很快地，更多的鳞片会突出来，鱼亦显得格外的肿胀跟肥胖。这在你由上往下看时尤其明显。当肩部亡即头部后面)的鳞片突出寸，这表示鱼已经进人此病症的末期了。有些鱼可能还会失去保持平衡的功能呢。如果不及寸治疗，鱼会于四—五天内死亡，死去的鱼会因为鳞片再次变平而恢复正常的外形。
☆疗法
把病鱼隔绝开来，另置于一复原缸里。这是因为水族箱两成的鱼有时候可能会在同一时间里得到此病。接连五天，每天定时进行90％的换水工作[只用旧水而已]。每一天除了给一百公升的水加入两—三克的特土拉塞科淋[1elracycline、抗菌黄色药粉)、0．3％盐正即在每一百公升的水里面加人三百克的盐)跟些许黑色素水[特土拉塞科淋在软水里更能发挥其功效)，还得把水温增高到三十三摄氏度。在这五天的疗程进行当中，停止给龙鱼喂食，并增加氧气设备。这是因为分解在水中的氧气会随着温度的增高而下降。
如果及早予以治疗，鱼儿复原的机率是颇高的、除了鳞片会扁平下去外，复原中的鱼也会开始进食+要不然的话，亢让鱼休息两天才再开始另一轮五天的疗程。每天换水的一个小时前，切切记得先把加热器关掉以避免鱼因为水温的变化而休克。
再者，特土拉塞科淋会影响水族箱的生化过滤这一事实也是不容忽视的、有鉴于此，寸寸保持水质的优良，以不含或者只含微量氨的水为宜。要注意的是，治疗时的用水应该保持在pH值六·五左右以便加强鱼对氨的抵抗力。
二、内出血
☆病因
细菌感染导致龙鱼的肝脏、肠脏、心脏均出血。通常发生在—卜—公分的幼鱼身上，乃致命性十分高的一种病症。
☆症状
龙鱼身体的某一小部分，通常就在其左鳃盖的后方，会发红-鱼儿在停止进食的同时，颜色也会转暗、如果不加以治疗，这一小片的红斑或会扩大，并在两—三天内置鱼儿于死地-
☆疗法
往往不会产生预期中的效果。然，及早的发现对挽救鱼儿的性命或许会有所帮助。将鱼隔离开来，并增加水温以及使用特土拉塞科淋[telfacycline)跟盐来给其进行一个五天的疗程[请参阅以上立鳞病的疗法)、假如鱼还能够进食的话，先把一些九状或者碎片状的饵料浸泡在特土拉塞科淋里才予以喂食；体形较大的鱼则可尝试将之注射人其体内。
三、腹液的积累
☆病因
细菌感染、肠脏的毛病、不良的饵料、此病往往发生在十—二十公分的幼鱼身上，为高度致命的鱼病。
☆症状
鱼停止进食、胃的部位变得肿胀、肛门发红。随着腹液越积越多而影响其鳔囊的功能，鱼儿将会头部朝下，尾部朝上地失去平衡。
☆疗法
把鱼隔离开来之后施予五天的特土拉塞科淋[telracycline)疗程[参阅以上立鳞病的治疗法)。又或者，另一个只可以使用在病情严重之龙鱼身上的办法是将一支手术用的细幼注射器刺人两片鱼鳞之间的肿胀部位。跟着慢慢地把腹液从鱼的腹腔抽出-曾经有过一次，十毫升的液体竟然从一条二十公分长的龙鱼体内被抽了出来。接着加人盐及将水温增高至三十三摄氏度，鱼或许需要五—七天的时间方可痊愈。
四、肠寄生虫
☆病因
龙鱼的胃部长有带虫正白)、圆虫[红褐)或者刺头虫[白里透黄)、时常发生于刚刚被釆收／引进的鱼，也可以通过活饵被感染。
☆症状
鱼儿经常无精打采地栖息在水族箱的一个角落、胃部膨胀起来、不肯进食、随着时间一天天过去，鱼儿也越来越瘦弱，水族箱的底部有时候甚至可以看到一—两公分的白色虫。
☆疗法
假若侵入龙鱼体内的寄生虫不会太多，此病一般不会被发现。在这种情况下，鱼儿可能根本就无需治疗。不过鱼要是显得非常衰弱与停止进食的话，治疗便得立刻进行了。方法是，接连两天的时间给一百公升的水加入一克的酶特罗尼达佐尔[Metronidazole、白色的粉末)，一星期三个疗程。此外，每一次加入药物时还得进行了15%-20％的换水工作才行。通过这个办法，鱼儿应该很快便可以进食了，表示它已经复原。
五、鳃盖翻转
☆病因
有三种原因可能导致这种状况的发生。水族箱无论在长度和宽度都太小；水里分解的氧气不充足；差劣的水质，例如氨的积累，都是，这个现象通常发生在成鱼的身上，并且只有在太迟采取行动来治疗的时候才会致命。
☆症状
正常的鳃盖跟包围着它的半透明软组织应该是扁干的，并紧紧贴着龙鱼的身体、当此状况发生寸，半透明的组织看起来就象是被翻转了过来似的，或者更直接一点的是，被翻起来了。这在鱼背对着你游泳的时候最为明显、病发初期，鱼儿的呼吸尽管会有些不规律，但还是照样可以进食，可是一旦鱼血红色的鳃线条露出来的时候，它即会停止进食和变得气喘吁吁，而且还会不寸地游到水面拼命吸气，这乃因为鳃线条受到细菌感染所致。到了最后，鱼儿会因为丧失其鳃的功能而窒息死去。论盐分，淡水鱼的体液比它周围的水来得高。因此，鱼儿的鳃会通过渗透作用[osmosis]让水进入其体内。另一方面，同样的鳃也会通过散布作用把体内的盐排出。这整个被鱼用来控制其体内盐跟水份平衡的过程叫作渗透调节作用。是以，海水鱼跟淡水鱼进行渗透调节作用的方向相反。
☆疗法
鉴于龙鱼一般可长至五十—六十公分长，所以一个一百二十公分x四十五公分x四十五公分的水族箱对这样的鱼来说确实略嫌小了些、它的身体因为比水箱的宽度还要长而不能够很j顷畅和完全地转弯。在这样狭窄的水箱待久了，鱼儿的鳃自然就会翻起来了。
根据粗略的估计，用宋饲养龙鱼的水箱起码必须比鱼身长三倍或者更多。同样的，水箱的宽度能否让鱼儿轻而易举地转弯亦是十分重要的。基于这一切，用一个一百五十公分x六十公分x四十五公分的水箱来饲养一条五十公分的龙鱼应该会比较理想。
分解在水中的氧气可用一昂贵的电子计表来测量，以五ppm及以上的读数为最佳。读数若小过五就表示氧气量不足够应付鱼鳃线条的正常功能，鱼儿因此得不停地在水面吸气。假如你在水族箱里养了八—九条各十五公分的龙鱼，可以使用一水中式过滤器或者三—四颗的充气球来确保饲育水的氧气供应充足。
若氨和亚硝酸的含量偏高，那就得在情况尚未恶化之前增加换水的次数来改善水质。如果水族箱只养了一条鱼，每隔一天便要换掉一半的水，一直到情况好转为止反之，如果养的是八—九条各十五公分的鱼，则每天都必须进行90％的换水工作。
假若以上的办法皆无效，而半透明的组织亦硬化了，不妨尝试以最后一项对策，即外科手术，来治疗、你只需一些苯佐卡因[benz。c山ne)或者奎那定(Quinal山ne)麻醉剂、手套、消过毒的手术剪刀跟消毒药粉即可，无用一个盛了少许水的袋子把鱼装起来，再倒人规定剂量的麻醉刑，麻醉药一定得严格按照所规定的剂量使用，否则鱼儿将会长眠不起。鱼在三— 五分钟内即会失去平衡，跟着肚子朝天、此时的它对触摸亦毫无反应、接下来把鱼置于一千净的湿台面／布上，戴上手套之后开始沿着半圆形组织把卷曲的部分剪掉。又或者，以剪刀尖朝向鱼目的方向沿着卷曲的组织切割几刀。这两个方法皆行得通。最后给鱼儿遭切割的地方敷上一些消毒药粉。手术终于大功告成。
在增加水族箱的氧气设备后把鱼放回。龙鱼应可于几分钟后恢复知觉。其后再保持水质的优良，好让鱼恢复体力。加入少许的盐，并在两—三天后才再开始喂食鱼儿，
六、鱼目混浊
☆病因
擦伤的鱼目、细菌感染、差劣的水质。此乃龙鱼极为普遍的毛病，不管大小都一样。可能导致继发感染。多数的时候都不会致死，但会造成眼睛失明。
☆症状
部分眼睛可见一层白色的膜。这层白膜到了后来会把整只眼睛都给覆盖住。通常只有一只眼睛受影响，不过有时候也会两只眼睛同时受到影响、鱼儿可以照样进食，行为也没有什么异样-如果不尽早应对这个问题，鱼儿受影响的那只眼睛很可能会失明。千万别将混浊的鱼眼睛跟失明的鱼眼睛混淆了，因为后一种情况的眼球已转为白色，已经没有办法再补救了。
另一种截然不同的情况是眼球的中央及周围已转成白色。又或者是眼球晶状体的外沿有一些呈白色的生长物，这主要是由受到细菌感染的破裂 晶状体所引起的、
☆疗法
如果是眼睛上普通的白膜，只要确保水质的优良即可。加入一些0．3％的盐跟增加换水的次数，龙鱼应可在三—四天里痊愈。
至于较为严重的细菌感染，则必须用特土拉塞科淋[tetracycline)跟0．3％盐[也就是在一百公升的水里加入三百克的盐)来配合三十三摄氏度的水治疗了。鱼或者需要三—五个月的时间才会痊愈。
据所知，差劣的水质也会造成鱼的眼睛混浊。龙鱼最适合在pH值介于六·五到七·五之间的酸性水里生存。要是水的pH值一直居高不下，比如说八的话，那鱼的眼睛可能就会慢慢地变得混浊。在这种情形之下，不妨以泥炭[peat]作为滤材或者加入磷酸来降低pH值。
七、皮肤病
☆病因
疏于换水的工作、氨的积累、以活性炭作为滤材。较常发生在过背金 龙亡马宋西亚金龙)的身上。有可能会致命。
☆症状
有些鳞片看起来好象是在溶解似的，使龙鱼子人一种歪歪斜斜的感觉。直线上的细孔会随着时间一天天的过去而变大。到了末期，连头部周围的 鱼皮也开始腐蚀了-
☆疗法
在用蓝美特尼[methylene blue)、青美拉再[malachite green)跟 0．3％盐来治疗的同时，把水温增高至三十三摄氏度、定期换水以保持良好的水质，龙鱼应可在一个月内恢复健康。
假若龙鱼的美态对你来说是极度重要的，那你可以通过手术来去除其身上歪曲的鳞片。先把鱼麻醉之后用钳子将损坏的鳞片取出。大约一—两个月后，新的鱼鳞又会自被拔除的鳞片所在之处漂亮地长出来了．
八、白点病
☆病因
这是由一种被称为“邑克”的原始寄生物所导致的鱼病，这些寄生物把自己附在鱼鳞的最外层以便吸食鱼的体液跟身体组织，并且会在高温下，例如二十五摄氏度，繁殖得更加迅速。差劣的水质、把鱼从一个水箱转移到另一个水箱、刚被采收的鱼苗和刚被引进的鱼都可能是罪魁祸首。相当容易治疗，也不会致命。
☆症状
一点一点的白色小斑点会布满龙鱼的全身，尤其是鱼的鳍、鳃盖和头部。这些小白点有时会因为集中在一起生长而变成一整块的白斑。到了后期，当这些寄生物侵入龙鱼的鳃线条的时候，鱼儿的呼吸率就会有上升的迹象。
☆疗法
这是淡水鱼中最为普遍的疾病之一。因此，市面上应该不难找到许多不同的商业药刑。把水温增高到三十三摄氏度后，再用蓝美特尼[methylene blue)、青美拉再[malachiteGreen)和0．3％盐予以治疗。假如三—四天还不能够治好病鱼的话，且让鱼儿先休息一两天再重复整个疗程，直至寄生物全被消灭为止。若及早予以治疗，此病极少会对鱼的性命构成威胁。
九、锚虫和鱼虱
☆病因
由身上带有这种寄生物的活饵，例如金鱼、孔雀鱼和青蛙以及刚被引进的龙鱼传播开来。相当容易治疗，也不会致命。
☆症状
锚虫是身体细长的寄生物亡长二十厘米左右)、而鱼虱则是呈圆形的平面甲壳生物[直径十厘米左右)。由于体形大，因此只用肉眼是可以看到这些附在鱼鳍和身体的寄生物的。受到感染的鱼会没有食欲和消瘦。它们还会紧贴着水族箱内其他的物品来搔痒呢，试图以这个方法来去除身上的寄生物。但是却徒劳无功。
☆疗法
一点都不困难，所以不会致命。只需要用钳子把成熟的锚虫从鱼体拔出即可。这些成熟的锚虫都是身体末端长有两个卵囊的母虫。因此，下一个步骤便是把所有刚孵出来便在水里游泳的幼虫消灭。要是在温度提高到三十三摄氏度的水里加入0．3％盐这个办法一点都不奏效的话，那就改用可以安全使用的杀虫剂吧，如抗寄生物的商业药剂。施药时得严格遵照指示来进行。过后还必须密切留意鱼儿有没有对药物产生任何不良的反应。这个方法也可以用来消灭鱼虱。
十、腐鳍病
☆病因
细菌感染、差劣的水质，特别是当氨的含量偏高的时候、疏于换水的工作、拥挤的水族箱、刚被引进的龙鱼。此病不难治疗，所以不会致命。
☆症状
龙鱼的鳍，尤其是尾鳍，裂开或者因为周围出现了白色的边缘而看似被撕破的感觉。此病不可跟咬尾与打架混淆。鱼的食欲和行为一切正常。
☆疗法
通过增加换水的次数来改善水质。加入0．3％盐跟一种可以用来对抗腐鳍病的商业药剂。鱼儿可能需要两—三个星期才能完全复原。跟白点病 一样，此病是淡水鱼中最为普遍的疾病。
十一、眼睛下垂[掉眼]
☆起因
这往往不被当成是一种疾病，故此无需过分担忧。这个问题多数发生在龙成鱼的身上；而绝少在幼鱼的身上。更何况，只有在水族箱内被饲养的龙鱼才会出现这种状况；池塘里饲养的不会。导致这个问题发生的原因有三、第一是在眼窝积累的脂肪组织；再来是会反射光线的玻璃水族箱；还有就是给饲养在高耸水族箱里的龙鱼喂食会沉淀到箱子底部的饵料。掉眼根本不会致命。
☆征状
龙鱼的一或者两只眼睛看似已经不在眼窝的位置了。尽管这种状况不会给龙鱼的健康和性命带来任何的威胁，可是却会大大地影响鱼的美感。
☆疗法
有些资深的龙鱼鱼主成功通过外科手术把龙鱼眼窝的脂肪组织切除。将鱼麻醉之后即可用简单的钳子把脂肪组织去除。然而，要令人满意地完成这项任务却需要稳健和纯熟的手法。否则的话，龙鱼可能就此失明。除非你已经别无其他更好的解决办法，不然还是别进行这项手术为妙。
更有一些人把一只手伸进水里抓牢龙鱼的身体来使其头部露出水面，另一只手则强而有力地将下垂的鱼眼按回原位，也就是眼窝里。这个办法因为危险性低，所以会比第一个方法更加可取。除非鱼摆动得厉害，否则根本就用不上麻醉剂。
鱼眼刚开始下垂的时候，不妨用不透光的布料或者纸皮把水族箱整个遮盖起来。情况或可在光线反射减至最低的两—四个月里好转。
假如一切的办法都行不通，而龙鱼又是一向来被饲养在高耸的水族箱里，那就尝试把鱼移到另一个比较靠近地面的水箱吧。与此同时，尽量以会在水面飘浮的饵料来喂食龙鱼。这样，龙鱼就不必为了找寻沉淀到水箱底部的饵料而老是往下看了。
十二、 鳔囊的疾病
☆病因
只有十—十五公分的幼龙鱼才会出现这个问题、如此幼小的龙鱼，鲳囊因为不知何故积存了过多的空气而功能失常。不会致命的毛病。
☆症状
鳔囊出了毛病的鱼头部会一直对着水族箱的底部；尾部则对着天花板、从来没有经历过这种情景的人看了或许会觉得怪，甚至是可怕，鱼的腹部会肿胀，不过可千万别把此腹部肿胀跟上面提到由腹液积累所引起的腹部肿胀给混淆了，鱼在其他的时候会表现得很正常，特别在进食时有些龙鱼或许会在几个月后自然痊愈。 ☆疗法
可能不需要治疗，除非鱼因为感到不舒服而拼命地挣扎着想要恢复正常的泳姿。比较安全的作法是将有问题的鱼置人一个水深只有五—八公分相等于鱼体宽度的水箱里、加入0．3％盐，并把水温增高至三十三摄氏度，另一作法是用一个只装了浅浅的水的塑胶袋将鱼包起来，在注入氧气之后[如同给输出的鱼做好准备一般)加入少许的盐。第二天[不得超过二十四小时)即可将鱼放出来、这个办法或许会有效，因为鱼的渗透调节作用能够使其恢复正常的泳姿。这个疗法一两天后可能需要再重复一遍。
若是一切的方法均不见效，最后的办法便唯有使用一支细幼的手术用注射器将鱼体肿胀部位内过多的空气抽出来。幼鱼无需麻醉，只需将之置放于一干净的湿布上即可。以快而准的手法完成之后马上把鱼放回水族箱里。它应该很快便可以正常地在水里游了、这或许有重复的必要。
十三、 断鳍／尾的现象
☆起因
由龙鱼自一个水箱被转移到另一个水箱时因为受惊而作出的挣扎反应引起、其他也有可能是在选购、鱼输出的途中或者换水的时候引起的，此外，用来装鱼的袋子如果太小也会导致这种情况的发生。一般发生于二十公分的幼鱼身上，其中又以过背金龙最有可能出现这种根本不足以致命的状况
☆征状
龙鱼的尾鳍、背鳍或腹鳍就象壁虎的尾巴一样，很多时候会一整片或者是有些时候的一部分掉落出来。结果留下一条没有尾巴／鳍，模样怪异的鱼。奇怪的是，尾巴／鳍断裂的地方竟然不会流血。
☆疗法
可千万别误以为这是—种病态来的，其实不然。十五—二十公分的幼鱼会比四十—五十公分的成鱼复原得快-想要鱼的尾巴／鳍长回以前的长度可能需要好几个月的时间，不过却难再回复当年美。尽管尾巴／鳍的形状可能不再象从前那般漂亮，但你还是要接受这个事实。除非你想通过修剪参差不齐的部分来使鱼的尾鳍再一次漂亮起来。加入盐跟复原素 [Acfinavine]宋加速伤口处的愈合。
十四、胃壁分泌物
☆起因
不详。经常发生于十—二十公分的幼鱼身上，为不足以致命的一种现象。
☆征状
水面飘浮着细细幼幼或者一整块的棕褐色胶状物体。幼鱼的可长达 两—三公分，鱼儿的行为和食欲均正常。
☆疗法
无，确保水质的优良。
十五、咬尾的现象
☆起因
不详。可能是鱼因为全新的环境或者空间太过狭窄而表现出来的一种焦虑行为， .
☆征状
可别将此与上述提及的断尾现象混淆了。断尾是鱼儿身上一整个部分的鳍／尾巴断裂出来了；而咬尾则是指龙鱼本身竟然把头转到后面去一小口一小口地咬噬自己的尾巴，使其呈献一种凹凸不平的样子，所以伤口不似前者的那般乎直。
☆疗法
十六、脊柱弯曲
☆征状
症状是鱼的脊柱弯曲成S形。
☆起因
可能是由于稚鱼期使用药物不当、水质不良加上运定量不足或营养不良造成。
☆疗法
治疗几乎不可能，关键在于预防、保持水质清洁、注意营养均衡而充分、尽量预防其它的鱼病并尽量不要使用药物、放入扬水马达增加鱼的运动量、水族箱要尽量的大。
十七、脂肪过多
☆征状
原因是摄食过多。
☆起因
运动有不足自然就会长得象个猪啦。不会死的但会减寿和造成无法产卵。
☆疗法
1、每周选1－2天停食。 2、放入扬水马达或选几条龙鱼配胖鱼一起玩以增加运动量。
十八、厌食症
☆征状
病鱼整天不进食，趴在缸底一动不动。
☆起因
水质又没问题，正常得不得了。这是水中环境变化使鱼有紧迫感造成的。
☆疗法
更换饵料来慢慢的使鱼适应。
十九、龙须打结
☆起因
水质不佳，导致食欲不好、没有元气，因而有这种情形。
☆疗法
可换水改善水质，增进食即可。
二十、鱼鳞蛀蚀
☆起因
鱼鳞蛀掉，有两种可能。1.长期下药2.感染体外寄生虫。
☆疗法
前者换水减低药量即可，后者要下杀体外寄生虫药。
二十一、鱼体失衡症、
☆起因
如果毛病不是由其他疾病引起，那么问题可能是鱼鳔的机能失常，也可能是是运动不足和过量投饵,导致胃肠障害（粪和脂肪阻塞着鱼鳔里面的空气不能调节而太多空气在里面才使鱼腹向上，还可能是因为先天性平衡失调，也可能是是水中的氨氮过多，使鱼中毒。
☆征状
鱼不能控制它们在水里的位置，有时只有尽最大的努力才能从水底升起来；有时不能离开水面，甚至在水面上倒置。
☆疗法
对于这种状况，没有有效的治疗方法，所以把水温提高是希望帮助肠胃活动好一点和鱼也会比较活发从而回复调节机能），用肠胃药（人类用的也可以）混合饵来喂! 由于此病是冷水诱发的，把温度略微升高加上中度（1%）的盐水浴常常能缓解病症。投喂水蚤或虫子改善消化有助于治疗。加强换水，保持水质稳定，试投喂各种抗生素。
二十二、出血病
☆起因
引起鱼患出血病的因素较为复杂，一般有病毒性、细菌性和环境因素的影响引发、
1．病毒、细菌(一般认为由单胞杆菌)和寄生虫侵害鱼体致使鱼体周身或局部受损。
2．水质关系 不管用自来水养鱼，还是湖水或井水养鱼，需经过静置或曝晒2—3天后，才可使用。如果不经过处理直接使用，轻则使鳍鳞充血，重则会使鱼致死。
☆征状
周身鳍(基部更甚)、鳞间或局部充血、溢血、溃疡、鳞片脱落；重则口腔、眼及内脏均有出血现象，病鱼呆浮或沉底懒游，轻者食欲减退，重者拒食、体色暗淡、消瘦、分泌物增加，并发细菌性水霉病、败血症而死亡。
☆疗法
(1)除注意上述致病因素的预防外，在溢血处检查有无寄生虫，有则捉除。同时，用红汞涂擦患处，然后放在小盆中漂洗一下再放回原池(缸)静养，每天1次，痊愈为止。
(2)把病鱼放入10—20毫克/升的呋喃西林或痢特灵的药液或2％一3％的盐水中浸泡10一15分钟后，过洗入池(缸)，隔天1次。
(3)严重者在10千克水中，加入100万单位的卡那霉素或8万一16万单位的庆大霉素，病鱼水浴静养2—3小时，多则半天后换入新水饲养。每天1次，一般2—3次即可。
二十三、吐胃袋
☆起因
龙鱼吐胃袋一般有两种情况：
（1）龙鱼这种骨舌科的鱼类，虽然是很强壮的鱼种，但对水质的过度变动却很敏感，但通常适应能力也很好，往往在变动的水质水温之中，可以在三至六个小时之内便能适应，但是若在适应环境变动的期间，让鱼吃的太多。
（2）是吃了不容易消化的食物或是带有尖刺的东西，让鱼的胃不舒服。
☆疗法
（1）这种情况很像是人晕车一样，所以我们在换水的前后三个小时不会让鱼进食，有的朋友甚至会在换水的这一天当中，完全让龙鱼禁食，其目的便是为了让鱼能调适水质的变化，龙鱼的呕吐现像可大可小，吐出来的胃袋这种东西，其实是龙鱼的胃酸包膜，但若处理不当持续呕吐的话，严重的会直接对鱼造成伤害。
（2）鱼的胃是真的一根肠子通到底，食道一进去紧接着前肠之后，便是主胃消化系统，但在食道跟前肠的接口处下方，是龙鱼的心脏部份，在消化道的上方则是鱼鳔，所以为什么要在喂虾时，拔掉虾箭，除了怕鱼刺伤消化系统也怕伤了这些重要器官，若仅是小伤消化系统，这是没有关系的，鱼会因应自己的生理反应机制，而有所谓吐胃袋的自我保护方式，若是这种情况，可以检查吐出了什么。
以上二种是最常见的吐胃袋情况，但还有其它情况也会造成，只不过机率较少罢了，因此常常注意受鱼的行为有助于爱鱼的健康成长。
二十四、红斑病（又稱打印病、開穴病或紅丹毒症）
☆起因
病毒性疾病，可以说是绝症。
☆征状
多出現在魚身後半段，初期產生紅色紋塊，繼而紅斑部位腫脹，鱗片翻翹，最後潰爛而死。
☆疗法
可以尝试将水温提高到36摄氏度，并用口服抗生素结合药浴。建议试试黑拿敏。
二十五、洞头症
☆起因
（情況一、營養缺乏）這是長期飼食同一種飼料或餌料所造成的營養性疾病。
（情況二、體內原生虫）由原生虫之寄生所引起（頭槽絛蟲、毛細線蟲、六鞭毛蟲）
☆征状
感染魚隻會有抖動身體、不安、食慾減退的狀況產生。
☆疗法
（情況一、營養缺乏）可先以「維他命」補充其營養並觀察是否有明顯改善。
（情況二、體內原生虫）可用「七彩專用除體內原生虫藥」進行治療，藥劑須依指示再減半使用。
二十六、蝕斑症
☆起因
其肇因為「致病菌」所引發，此症不會立即影響龍魚之性命，但很難在短時間內治癒，可能須花點時間。☆征状
外觀類似頭洞症，不過症狀是呈現腐爛撥落的情形。
☆疗法
市售黃藥只能治療較初級的細菌感染疾病，對於此病及紅斑症、腹水症似乎無明顯療效，我不建議使用「抗生素」，您可以選購「t牌萬能水」或「抑萬菌」等特效藥試試。倘若仍然無改善情形，可能得將龍魚移到它缸繼續藥浴，舊缸與過濾設備須以福瑪林消毒並洗淨後再重新養水設缸。
二十七、缩鯺
☆起因
缩鳍原因很多，应当说，小龙只要用心照顾，是可以避免缩鳍的。
☆疗法
一旦缩鳍，需要仔细分析，对症调理。缩鳍的原因及调理方法：1、老头鱼、长期营养不良，鱼厌食，状态不好，难调理。2、大缸小鱼、小龙精神紧张，大缸饲养，一般在一角游动，当离开自己的安全范围，会缩鳍快速游动，久之会有游动缩鳍的毛病，调理时需用隔板隔开小空间，使其适应，慢慢随着成长扩大空间。3、水质不良、鱼体状态不好，伴随卧缸、尾部下垂、游动缓慢、少食和体表反映；调理方法，换水，改善水质，升温打气。4、环境因素、温度低、灯光强、水流急，都有可能引发缩鳍，检查设备，进行调整。5、外寄、鱼虱、箭虫、小瓜虫等外寄影响，鱼体状态不好，缩鳍，同时有摩擦身体，扭动、撞缸表现，调理方法为对症除去外寄生虫。6、内寄、最不容易确定，有时鱼体排泄不好，同时状态下降，用waterlife内寄药物检疫。7、精神不好、单养或者捞出混养鱼有时发生，原因是孤独与缺乏斗志，调理方法是增加混养鱼，或者用玻璃隔开，对面放一条比其小的龙鱼，加以诱导。其实缩鳍只要细心是可以避免和恢复的，调理时根据情况讲究方式方法就可以了。
二十八、水霉病
☆起因
疏于换水的工作、水质变差，氨的积累、以活性炭作为滤材。
☆征状
其病菌附身在鱼的伤口处，为灰白色。肉眼可看出在鱼的伤口，有如棉絮纤维覆盖般，鱼只游动不稳健并会磨擦底材或缸壁止痒，身体慢慢虚弱、食欲减退，逐渐衰竭而死。
☆疗法
可以盐浴法并配合高温治疗，或选用抑万菌、专治霉菌感染的药剂亦可。
二十九、脱缸
☆起因
消化不良；疾病并发症，最常发生在25㎝以下的幼鱼阶段，当吃食「较硬(尤以干燥黑壳虾、附壳溪虾为最)」或「吸水度差」的饵料时，某些消化系统较差的个体会产生肛门突出的现象。
☆疗法
通常『禁食』一段日子后即可慢慢自行回复，若担心它饿，饵食最好采用刚脱壳的白身面包虫or泡软的人工饲料。另外「肠胃炎」与「腹水症」也会伴随着肛门红肿。鱼友的幼龙若是属此类病因，可至七彩专卖店购买肠胃用药治疗。有玩家建议可买注射用庆大霉素或氯霉素，先注射到活饵体内再给龙儿吃，以便消炎，最好两、三日一次，药剂也不要施予太多，龙鱼是很聪明的，药太苦、次数太多它就不吃了。
三十、胡椒病
☆起因
由体外虫所感染。
☆征状
其肇因与白点病雷同，亦是有如黏在表面一般，不过外观比白点病还要细小，颜色也较米白偏黄色，感染的鱼只初期并无大碍，但晚期体表会有粘膜增生(易引发细菌感染)的情形，值得注意。
☆疗法
可使用一般的万能水治疗，并每隔几日适量换水与追加药剂，直到鱼只痊愈。
三十一、胡须长瘤
☆起因
最常发生在具有「磨缸」习惯的龙鱼身上，由于长期的磨损造成胡须表皮组织受伤，又基于水质不良、病原的影响引爆出发炎肿胀的现象。
☆征状
须部长出一小颗、一小颗的肉瘤，远看好似刷子一般，常被误以为是霉菌感染！
☆疗法
长期性的水质改善多半会不药而愈。若玩家觉得碍眼，最快的方法是先将龙鱼麻醉，然后用手把肉瘤刮除，最后在伤口上抹一些黄药，水里也下些黄药预防伤口细菌感染。 不过有些个体过阵子可能会再长出小肉瘤，此时运用麻醉手术直接将胡须剪断(断病根)使其重长，日后新长出来的胡须就不会再乱长异物了。但龙鱼与人类相同，随着年纪的增长复原速度也会跟着拉长，值得深思！另外亦有鱼友『移新缸』后痘子消退的情形，因为原缸的水已严重恶化(含有刺激杂质)，适度换水也无济于事。过度喂食「浓缩营养素」亦会造成龙须长出异物，这点玩家宜特别注意！
三十二、肿斑病
☆起因
这种病一般杂志都没有记载，算是一种很特殊且不多见的龙鱼专属怪病。
☆征状
它看起来很像白点病但颗粒较大、较凸些，外观上有如长白色肉瘤一般，一样也是先从鳍面再延伸到身体，严重时通常会伴随着胡须长痘痘，甚至眼球上也会滋长，当数目陆续增加时，您会发现好象大部份并排在末三鳍的边缘，有时候还会有白色分泌物产生！
☆疗法
此病非常棘手，以前有龙友就有一尾青龙曾发生过此怪病，在未确实知道病因时，下过各大知名品牌的细菌、霉菌、体内虫、体外虫、万能水…但都只能稍有好转而无法完全根治。这种怪病与前述两种疾病最大的不同点就是『再怎么严重也不会影响食欲』！后来我认为还是『着重于水质』算了，也不管它了，不过换水频率有明显增加，后来长达半年的时间才不药而愈。同样的怪病我也曾在某知名量贩店的黄金红龙身上看到，当时询问业者，但他本身吱呜其词也搞不清楚状况(毕竟此症不多见)，只顾着胡乱介绍一些与主题无关紧要的化学治剂，当然他的龙自己本身也治不好！后来我观察到此店家在更换店面并『换缸』后鱼只就不药而愈了。从前述我们可以了解水质应该才是主要的重点，所以问题就出在旧缸的水。
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