A麦饭石的基本概念
B麦饭石的药理作用
C麦饭石的调控过程
D麦饭石的影响范围
E麦饭石的选择投放
A麦饭石的基本概念
麦饭石是产生于岩浆活动区的一种矿物药石，因其外观酷似大麦米饭团而得名。明朝伟大的医药实践家李时珍著《本草纲目》（1593）中记载，麦饭石“甘、温、无毒”，主治“一切痛疽发背”。 近代麦饭石传到国外，在日本称麦饭石为“健康石”，南朝鲜称为“矿泉药石”，在我国的台湾称为“长寿石”。
麦饭石的矿物组成与岩石结构表明，至少有59种有益原素包含其中，如人们称之为“生命元素的钙、镁、铁、钛、硅、钾、碘、锌、磷、锰等等。专家认为：“研究表明，在矿物质中，象麦饭石这样富集多种生物体必需微量元素者，实属罕见”。
B麦饭石的药理作用
麦饭石的药理作用在进行充分实验后证明有以下几点：
㈠提高机体抗癌防变作用：
1.有较明显的抑制小白鼠乳腺癌的作用。实验证明，应用麦饭石浸液，能延长被接种乳腺癌细胞（Ca761/L）后纯系小鼠的出瘤时间而且能延长带瘤小鼠平均存活时间。这说明饮用麦饭石浸液有较明显的抑制小鼠乳腺癌的作用，并且饮用时间越长，延长存活时间的效果越好。
2.抑制二甲肼的诱癌作用，以10%麦饭石浸泡液作为实验组大鼠的饮用水，结果发现能有效地抑制二甲肼（DMH）诱导的大鼠大肠癌的发生。这表明了麦饭石的抗癌及抑制癌细胞转移的作用，同时还能明显增强动物的体质。
㈡提高机体免疫功能作用：
1.增强细胞免疫功能的作用，实验表明：麦饭石水浸出液灌胃给药能促进注射兔抗小鼠淋巴细胞血清（ALS）后小鼠T淋巴细胞的生长和增加小鼠的抗体数，使ALS杀伤的T淋巴细胞恢复到接近正常水平。
2.增强巨噬细胞的吞噬能力：据报道，给小鼠灌服精制麦饭石。能明显提高其吞噬细胞对鸡红细胞的吞噬百分率和吞噬指数。
㈢提高机体抗衰老的作用：
有实验报道，给小鼠饮用50%（W/V）麦饭石水溶液8周后，发现其血锌显着增高，血铜降低，血清、脑、肝、肺中MDA含量显着降低，表明麦饭石水溶液可抑制GPX的活性，降低小鼠体内的脂质过氧化水平，具有延缓衰老及防治疾病的作用。
㈣提高机体抗疲劳的作用：
据报道，给健康成年小鼠每天自由饮用20%麦饭石能明显延长小鼠平均游泳时间。
㈤提高机体耐缺氧的能力：
有实验表明：麦饭石能明显延长小鼠的缺氧存活时间，具有抗缺氧作用。
㈥提高机体肝功能的能力：
有研究表明：腹腔注射1%的麦饭石溶液能增进酒精性肝损害小鼠的肝脏机能，促进其肝细胞新陈代谢和能量转换，对酒精性肝损害有一定的预防作用，并且有增强机体免疫力，预防肝脂肪变性及抗炎等功能。
㈦提高机体骨盐沉积能力：
骨由（骨细胞、骨盐及有机基质）三部分组成，而其中的骨盐决定骨的硬度。它的主要成分为羟磷灰石[Ca10(Po4)6(OH)2]，而麦饭石中含大量无机物，其中部分易被机体吸收沉积在骨痂中，而且锌的补充，为钙化准备了必要条件，加速了钙盐沉积的速度，形成更多的羟磷灰石结晶，提高了骨的硬度，缩短骨折愈合时间。
㈧提高机体抗御氟的能力：
实验表明，饮料或饮水中加入麦饭石后，使过量氟对大白鼠的毒性有不同程度的减弱。表现在：骨软化程度减轻；血清及软骨ALP（肋软骨中碱性磷酸酶）、 LDH（乳酸脱氢酶）活性下降；血清T4（甲状腺素）、TSH（垂体促甲状腺素）、LH（血清黄体生成素）含量下降；且对氟中毒所致的血清皮质酮及骨铜含量下降有明显恢复。这些指标都反映过量氟引起的变化有所改善，表明麦饭石确有抗氟作用。
㈨具有对细菌吸附作用：
实验表明：麦饭石用过滤法对大肠杆菌、痢疾杆菌、变形杆菌和绿脓杆菌、金黄色葡萄球菌、白色念珠球菌均有较强的吸附作用，其中以对金黄色葡萄球菌和白色念珠球菌的吸附率最高，均在98%以上，而且滤柱愈高，吸附率也随之增高；静置吸附法较过滤法吸附率低，但对细菌也有一定的吸附作用。
C麦饭石的调控过程
麦饭石的工作原理表明，它在水质控制中具有积极主动的运作：利用自身成分以吸收、分解的方法在水中电离有毒物质及吸收多余的矿物质，或在水中释放生物体必不可少的各种矿物质，以补充其不足，平衡矿物质数量。麦饭石对水质的双向调节作用简言之：水中微量元素缺少，它即溶出；水中微量元素过多时，它来吸附。具体过程如下：
㈠强力吸附：能吸附水中有害的重金属离子，如铬、铜、镉、砷等，吸附水中的残氯。一是以散发出的天然矿物质能够吸收自来水中的氯，并清除水中漂白粉的味道，将自来水矿化为可口的矿泉水。二是吸附水中的细菌。科学家们在麦饭石吸附大肠杆菌的实验中发现，６小时可吸附50％，20小时可吸附90％，48小时可吸附95％以上。而在不放麦饭石的对照组，在上述时间内则无变化。日本的大野武男教授让白色葡萄球菌液在一分钟内流过十日筛的麦饭石颗粒层、重复多次，每次都有百分之五十六至六十的细菌被吸附掉，而在十毫升含大肠杆菌的溶液里，放入二克麦饭石，吸附五分钟，第一次，菌液中七万六千个细菌减少到八千个；第二次，六万一千个减少到一万三千个。麦饭石的吸附能力和吸附效果远远优于活性碳。
㈡适时溶出：麦饭石含有多种生物体不可缺少的微量元素，如镁、铁、钾、氟、钙等，能在水中轻易溶出。尤其是矿物质进入生物体后，能吸附体内滞留的有害物质镉，有机卤化物等，并将其排出体外，并能清洗细胞里的污垢，促进细胞生长。
㈢自动调节酸碱度：其调节范围，从弱酸性ＰＨ5到弱碱性ＰＨ11，均可调整至近中性7.0至8.7（最大值，根据产地不同，略有差异），并长期保持均衡的酸碱度不变。
Showing posts with label Tank Set Up. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tank Set Up. Show all posts
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Monday, December 7, 2009
Startup cycle
Call it cycling, nitrification, biological cycle, startup cycle, break-in cycle, or the nitrogen cycle. No matter what name you use, every newly set up aquarium goes through a process of establishing beneficial bacterial colonies. Older aquariums also go through periods during which the bacterial colonies fluctuate. Failure to understand this process is the largest contributing factor to the loss of fish. Learning what it is, and how to deal with critical periods during the nitrogen cycle, will greatly increase your chances of successful fish keeping.
The Waste Problem
Unlike nature, an aquarium is a closed environment. All the wastes excreted from the fish, uneaten food, and decaying plants stay inside the tank. If nothing eliminated those wastes, your beautiful aquarium would turn into a cesspool in no time at all.
Actually, for a short period of time, a new aquarium does become a toxic cesspool. The water may look clear, but don't be fooled. It's loaded with toxins. Sounds awful, doesn't it? Fortunately bacteria that are capable of converting wastes to safer by-products begin growing in the tank as soon as fish are added. Unfortunately there aren't enough bacteria to eliminate all the toxins immediately, so for a period of several weeks to a month or more, your fish are at risk.
However, you need not lose them. Armed with an understanding of how the nitrogen cycle works and knowing the proper steps to take, you can sail through the break-in cycle with very few problems.
Stages of the Nitrogen Cycle
There are three stages of the nitrogen cycle, each of which presents different challenges.
Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.
Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.
Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every few months to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.
Now that you know what is happening, what should you do? Simple steps such as testing and changing the water will help you manage the nitrogen cycle without losing your fish.
What To Do
The key for success is testing the water for ammonia and nitrites, and taking action quickly when problems occur. To aid in tracking the status of your aquarium, links to charts for logging your tests can be found under the charts section of this page. Each chart shows the danger zones and offers steps to reduce toxins before they result in loss of your fish.
Test for ammonia: Begin testing on day three after adding the fish, and continue every day until the ammonia begins to drop. After it begins to fall, continue testing every other day until the ammonia reaches zero. Using the chart provided, plot the ammonia levels. Should ammonia reach the danger zone, take steps as shown on the chart. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing (gilling), clamped fins, erratic swimming, or hanging at the surface for air, take immediate action to lower the ammonia level. Chemicals such as Ammo-Lock will quickly neutralize toxic ammonia.
Test for nitrites: Begin testing one week after adding the fish. Continue testing every second or third day, until it reaches zero. Using the chart provided, plot the nitrite levels and take steps as shown on the chart if nitrite reaches the danger zone. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing or hanging near the surface seemingly gasping for air, test for nitrite. If levels are elevated perform an immediate 25-50% water change and test daily until levels drop.
What Not To Do
# Don't add more fish - wait until the cycle is completed.
# Don't change the filter media - the beneficial bacteria are growing there. Don't disturb them until they have become well established.
# Don't overfeed the fish - when in doubt underfeed your fish. Remember that anything going into the tank will produce wastes one way or another.
# Don't try to alter the pH - the beneficial bacteria can be affected by changes in pH. Unless there is a serious problem with the pH, leave it alone during the startup cycle process.
Q: Will adding bacteria solutions, such as those available at pet shops, eliminate the break-in cycle?
A: No, due to lack of an ongoing supply of ammonia and oxygen, the nitrification bacteria cannot survive in a bottle for a prolonged period of time. There are manufacturers making special preparations of the nitrogen fixing bateria. However, what you see on the shelf at the store is simply the bacteria needed for the first stage of the cycle, not nitritfying bacteria. Since the bacteria needed for the first stage of the cycle is already present in the tank once it is set up, there is no need to purchase more of what you already have.
Q: Will changing the water lengthen the time of the cycle?
A: It is true that partial water changes decrease the level of ammonia and nitrites, which in turn triggers less growth of the bacteria that feed on them. That doesn't mean you shouldn't perform water changes. If the ammonia or nitrite levels become too high, the fish will die. That means that partial water changes should be done whenever toxins reach dangerous levels, even if it means if it slows down the completion of the cycle.
Q: Won't filling the tank and letting it run for several days before adding the fish get the nitrogen cycle going?
A: No, the cycle doesn't start the instant the tank is set up. An ongoing supply of ammonia must be present for the process to begin. That only happens if fish are in the tank, or ammonia is added regularly, as is done in "fishless cycling".
Q: A friend started a new aquarium and didn't test the water or do water changes. In spite of all that, he didn't lose a single fish. If he can get away with that, why can't I?
A: Your friend probably had the magic combination of several of these key factors; relatively few fish, very hardy fish, a large aquarium, minimal feeding, live plants, and water with a low pH. While it is possible to get through the startup-cycle without doing anything, it is not wise to leave it to chance. The only way to be sure you don't lose fish is to test your water to monitor what’s happening, and take steps if ammonia or nitrite levels soar too high.
Ammonia Check :
NSTRUCTIONS
1 Begin ammonia testing on third day after aqaurium has been set up.
2 Plot test results on chart daily until values drop to zero.
3 If results are in the shaded areas, take appropriate steps as shown.
4 If at any time the fish show signs of distress immediately take steps shown for > 2.0
Water Changes
Use water that has a lower pH and the same temperature as the aquarium water.
When changing water remove any uneaten food and other debris.
How to Lower pH
Filter water using peat.
Use water with a lower pH when doing water change (R.O water, or distilled water).
Use a pH lowering agent such as pH Down.
Chemicaly Neutralizing Ammonia
Use a commercially prepared chemical such as Ammo-Lock, according to manufacturers instructions.
Ammonia in ppm :
0.25 - 1 ppm : Perform 25% water change and reduce feeding by half
1 - 2 ppm : Perform 25 to 50% water change and continue reduce feeding and observe the fish whether in distress or not.
> 2ppm - Perform 50% water change, Chemically neutralize ammonia
Lower pH below 7.0,Withold feedings until level drops
Nitrate Check :
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Begin nitrite testing on seventh day after aqaurium has been set up, or when the ammonia begins to drop
2 Plot test results on chart daily until values drop to zero.
3 If results are in the shaded areas, take appropriate steps as shown.
4 If at any time the fish show signs of distress immediately take steps shown for > 1.0
Water Changes
When changing water remove any uneaten food and other debris.
Water changes are the only way to reduce Nitrites. If levels are extremely high, multiple water changes
may be necessary to bring the level to a safe range
Nitrate in ppm :
0.1 - 0.5 : Perform 25 % water change,Reduce feedings by half
0.5 - 1 ppm : Perform 50 % water change,Reduce feedings by half n Add 1/2 oz salt per 1 gallon water,Increase aeration.
> 1ppm : Perform 50 % water change, Retest after water change, if not below 1.0, change water again.
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/biologicalcycle/a/nitrogencycle_3.htm
The Waste Problem
Unlike nature, an aquarium is a closed environment. All the wastes excreted from the fish, uneaten food, and decaying plants stay inside the tank. If nothing eliminated those wastes, your beautiful aquarium would turn into a cesspool in no time at all.
Actually, for a short period of time, a new aquarium does become a toxic cesspool. The water may look clear, but don't be fooled. It's loaded with toxins. Sounds awful, doesn't it? Fortunately bacteria that are capable of converting wastes to safer by-products begin growing in the tank as soon as fish are added. Unfortunately there aren't enough bacteria to eliminate all the toxins immediately, so for a period of several weeks to a month or more, your fish are at risk.
However, you need not lose them. Armed with an understanding of how the nitrogen cycle works and knowing the proper steps to take, you can sail through the break-in cycle with very few problems.
Stages of the Nitrogen Cycle
There are three stages of the nitrogen cycle, each of which presents different challenges.
Initial stage: The cycle begins when fish are introduced to the aquarium. Their feces, urine, as well as any uneaten food, are quickly broken down into either ionized or unionized ammonia. The ionized form, Ammonium (NH4), is present if the pH is below 7, and is not toxic to fish. The unionized form, Ammonia (NH3), is is present if the pH is 7 or above, and is highly toxic to fish. Any amount of unionized Ammonia (NH3) is dangerous, however once the levels reach 2 ppm, the fish are in grave danger. Ammonia usually begins rising by the third day after introducing fish.
Second stage: During this stage Nitrosomonas bacteria oxidize the ammonia, thus eliminating it. However, the by-product of ammonia oxidation is nitrite, which is also highly toxic to fish. Nitrites levels as low as low as 1 mg/l can be lethal to some fish. Nitrite usually begins rising by the end of the first week after introducing fish.
Third stage: In the last stage of the cycle, Nitrobacter bacteria convert the nitrites into nitrates. Nitrates are not highly toxic to fish in low to moderate levels. Routine partial water changes will keep the nitrate levels within the safe range. Established tanks should be tested for nitrates every few months to ensure that levels are not becoming extremely high.
Now that you know what is happening, what should you do? Simple steps such as testing and changing the water will help you manage the nitrogen cycle without losing your fish.
What To Do
The key for success is testing the water for ammonia and nitrites, and taking action quickly when problems occur. To aid in tracking the status of your aquarium, links to charts for logging your tests can be found under the charts section of this page. Each chart shows the danger zones and offers steps to reduce toxins before they result in loss of your fish.
Test for ammonia: Begin testing on day three after adding the fish, and continue every day until the ammonia begins to drop. After it begins to fall, continue testing every other day until the ammonia reaches zero. Using the chart provided, plot the ammonia levels. Should ammonia reach the danger zone, take steps as shown on the chart. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing (gilling), clamped fins, erratic swimming, or hanging at the surface for air, take immediate action to lower the ammonia level. Chemicals such as Ammo-Lock will quickly neutralize toxic ammonia.
Test for nitrites: Begin testing one week after adding the fish. Continue testing every second or third day, until it reaches zero. Using the chart provided, plot the nitrite levels and take steps as shown on the chart if nitrite reaches the danger zone. If at any time fish show signs of distress, such as rapid breathing or hanging near the surface seemingly gasping for air, test for nitrite. If levels are elevated perform an immediate 25-50% water change and test daily until levels drop.
What Not To Do
# Don't add more fish - wait until the cycle is completed.
# Don't change the filter media - the beneficial bacteria are growing there. Don't disturb them until they have become well established.
# Don't overfeed the fish - when in doubt underfeed your fish. Remember that anything going into the tank will produce wastes one way or another.
# Don't try to alter the pH - the beneficial bacteria can be affected by changes in pH. Unless there is a serious problem with the pH, leave it alone during the startup cycle process.
Q: Will adding bacteria solutions, such as those available at pet shops, eliminate the break-in cycle?
A: No, due to lack of an ongoing supply of ammonia and oxygen, the nitrification bacteria cannot survive in a bottle for a prolonged period of time. There are manufacturers making special preparations of the nitrogen fixing bateria. However, what you see on the shelf at the store is simply the bacteria needed for the first stage of the cycle, not nitritfying bacteria. Since the bacteria needed for the first stage of the cycle is already present in the tank once it is set up, there is no need to purchase more of what you already have.
Q: Will changing the water lengthen the time of the cycle?
A: It is true that partial water changes decrease the level of ammonia and nitrites, which in turn triggers less growth of the bacteria that feed on them. That doesn't mean you shouldn't perform water changes. If the ammonia or nitrite levels become too high, the fish will die. That means that partial water changes should be done whenever toxins reach dangerous levels, even if it means if it slows down the completion of the cycle.
Q: Won't filling the tank and letting it run for several days before adding the fish get the nitrogen cycle going?
A: No, the cycle doesn't start the instant the tank is set up. An ongoing supply of ammonia must be present for the process to begin. That only happens if fish are in the tank, or ammonia is added regularly, as is done in "fishless cycling".
Q: A friend started a new aquarium and didn't test the water or do water changes. In spite of all that, he didn't lose a single fish. If he can get away with that, why can't I?
A: Your friend probably had the magic combination of several of these key factors; relatively few fish, very hardy fish, a large aquarium, minimal feeding, live plants, and water with a low pH. While it is possible to get through the startup-cycle without doing anything, it is not wise to leave it to chance. The only way to be sure you don't lose fish is to test your water to monitor what’s happening, and take steps if ammonia or nitrite levels soar too high.
Ammonia Check :
NSTRUCTIONS
1 Begin ammonia testing on third day after aqaurium has been set up.
2 Plot test results on chart daily until values drop to zero.
3 If results are in the shaded areas, take appropriate steps as shown.
4 If at any time the fish show signs of distress immediately take steps shown for > 2.0
Water Changes
Use water that has a lower pH and the same temperature as the aquarium water.
When changing water remove any uneaten food and other debris.
How to Lower pH
Filter water using peat.
Use water with a lower pH when doing water change (R.O water, or distilled water).
Use a pH lowering agent such as pH Down.
Chemicaly Neutralizing Ammonia
Use a commercially prepared chemical such as Ammo-Lock, according to manufacturers instructions.
Ammonia in ppm :
0.25 - 1 ppm : Perform 25% water change and reduce feeding by half
1 - 2 ppm : Perform 25 to 50% water change and continue reduce feeding and observe the fish whether in distress or not.
> 2ppm - Perform 50% water change, Chemically neutralize ammonia
Lower pH below 7.0,Withold feedings until level drops
Nitrate Check :
INSTRUCTIONS
1 Begin nitrite testing on seventh day after aqaurium has been set up, or when the ammonia begins to drop
2 Plot test results on chart daily until values drop to zero.
3 If results are in the shaded areas, take appropriate steps as shown.
4 If at any time the fish show signs of distress immediately take steps shown for > 1.0
Water Changes
When changing water remove any uneaten food and other debris.
Water changes are the only way to reduce Nitrites. If levels are extremely high, multiple water changes
may be necessary to bring the level to a safe range
Nitrate in ppm :
0.1 - 0.5 : Perform 25 % water change,Reduce feedings by half
0.5 - 1 ppm : Perform 50 % water change,Reduce feedings by half n Add 1/2 oz salt per 1 gallon water,Increase aeration.
> 1ppm : Perform 50 % water change, Retest after water change, if not below 1.0, change water again.
http://freshaquarium.about.com/cs/biologicalcycle/a/nitrogencycle_3.htm
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
